2016 Tacoma 4 batteries in 4 years

A

Andrew Ramstedt

New Member
Good day everyone. I bought the truck brand new in 2016. Took it into service every 6 months for the first two years, charging system checked out fine. Then once more for the 3rd year, charging system checked out fine. Using Costco Interstate batteries. Started using a 1.8 watt solar trickle charger last year in december 2019 with the most recent battery which lasted 9 months. I have a Viper alarm on the vehicle and don't drive it much, only 15,800 on it. Voltage at battery when running is 13.97. I don't know if I can check amps with a multi tester at battery, seen different instructions and a little nervous to try. Battery voltage not running is 13.1, whether solar trickle charger is connected or not. Maybe use a powered trickle charger? Any one use the Black and Decker 1.8 watt charger? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
Let's start by saying that our understanding of chargers and nomenclature may not be the same. First off you're security system plus the normal draw from you're clock and other stuff that has a minute power draw when off is whats probably whats discharging youre battery especially if it sits for long periods. I don't know how effective a solar charger is other than obviously its not going to work at night. My interpretation of a trickle charger is just a slow charge but it never shuts off. What you need is a battery maintainer, it will charge as needed and then monitor battery until it needs charged again, then charge again and then monitor.
 
Hi Bob and thank you for the reply. I talked with the manager at the dealership and he said that constant feed trickle chargers can sulfonate the battery plates by overcharging. I have seen different opinions on what a fully charged battery volts read at. 12.6 seems to be good, though something higher is also ok. Have not seed what the volt reading would be on an overcharged battery. Yes, he mentioned the battery Tender, self regulates, no over charging. I will try that. He said the issue was a combination of not driving the truck much, coupled with the micro drains. The analogy he used for the battery was a glass of water. When I start the truck, the glass drops an ounce, it would take an hour of driving to refill the glass which will not happen on really short trips. He also mentioned the battery light would come on if there was an issue with the alternator, duh, lol. I feel like I am always relearning things I once knew. Cheers.
 
The thing with auto batteries is its more about amperage than volts. A new battery depending on size will have anywhere from 400 to 800 cold cranking amps. As a battery ages these amps will decrease, finally decrease to the point where it won't start. Even at this point it may show 12/13 volts, just not enough amperage.
 
Thanks again Bob. Yes, this is true, there is a load tester for the battery to test amps. Kind of relearning what I knew before, lol. I was reading about how to test the amps being put out by the alternator and there were different instructions. Some one said to use a multimeter set to amps and place on the battery terminals, others said to attach the hot lead to the alternator itself, others said to use a inductive amp reader, the one with the clamp ring style. The dealer said if the volts at the battery terminals shows 13.9 - 14.2 volts when running it is not the alternator, as there has to be enough amps to generate those readings. I can bang a nail into a board no problem, electrical issues always get me, lol, thanks again for your help.
 
I say put a good cranking amp battery in from interstate and park it .you can always disconnect the battery when it sits .I put a battery disconnect terminal on my 35 ford when I'm not driving it I unscrew there's no drain but I don't have it alarmed either
 
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