Grinding while turning in 4 high

Cokobordello

Cokobordello

Member
Long time lurker, first post... please go easy on me. My truck runs smooth in 2wd but when I go into 4 high it cranks cyclically when turning. I just had the rack and pinion replaced and then these symptoms developed. Truck was sitting with 4x4 engaged for probably a month. The grinding sounds terrible. Is it not fully shifting to 4 wheel drive? CVs look fine, just did lower ball joints and an outer tie rod end. 1996 toyota tacoma 3.4L v6 manual, 275k miles. Open differential no manual locking hubs.
 
Welcome. Does the grinding occur when in 4WD going in a straight line or only when turning? Gotta have some wheel slippage when turning or you're gonna have that grinding like the front end is gonna come apart.
 
B-Man said:
Welcome. Does the grinding occur when in 4WD going in a straight line or only when turning? Gotta have some wheel slippage when turning or you're gonna have that grinding like the front end is gonna come apart.
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Only happens *when turning, sounds fine in a straight line. even on dirt or gravel. Haven't ever felt it do that but yea it sounds like the whole front end is gonna come apart. Clicking popping with every half wheel rotation
 
CV joint or half shaft will need replacing. Try to decide which side. Have someone drive slow when you walk beside and turn. It’s the cheapest thing to try and to replace compared to that rack you didn’t need!
 
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No as the front CV joints are not loaded then and if your truck is working properly they can turn freely. Hey it’s the cheapest thing to look at and try.
 
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If you are turning more then about a 45 degree angle you will start to have drive line “binding” in 4hi or 4lo when not on low traction surfaces. This seems like what you’re describing. If there is no noise in 2wd, no noise in 4hi going straight and leas than 45degree turns but the noise happens when you crank the wheel to make a ”sharper” turn and you’re not in sand, snow or mud it’s normal to have that sound. You may even experience it in a low traction situation. You should not really be turning sharp in 4wd. This sounds like it’s binding and is normal.
4wd is typically used in low traction areas. You can engage it on dry pavement but DO NOT turn ONLY go straight. Disengage if you need to turn. Even on gravel roads and in some cases snow, sand or mud you may need to disengage 4hi or 4lo to make a sharper turn if you’re in that position. Or just live with the lurching and noise from the drive line binding and hope you don’t cause damage.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do to get out of a situation.
I’m guessing it’s normal and nothing is broke or needs to be fixed. Just be more mindful of the surface traction and turning angle.
 
OR17TRD said:
If you are turning more then about a 45 degree angle you will start to have drive line “binding” in 4hi or 4lo when not on low traction surfaces. This seems like what you’re describing. If there is no noise in 2wd, no noise in 4hi going straight and leas than 45degree turns but the noise happens when you crank the wheel to make a ”sharper” turn and you’re not in sand, snow or mud it’s normal to have that sound. You may even experience it in a low traction situation. You should not really be turning sharp in 4wd. This sounds like it’s binding and is normal.
4wd is typically used in low traction areas. You can engage it on dry pavement but DO NOT turn ONLY go straight. Disengage if you need to turn. Even on gravel roads and in some cases snow, sand or mud you may need to disengage 4hi or 4lo to make a sharper turn if you’re in that position. Or just live with the lurching and noise from the drive line binding and hope you don’t cause damage.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do to get out of a situation.
I’m guessing it’s normal and nothing is broke or needs to be fixed. Just be more mindful of the surface traction and turning angle.
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I appreciate the response! I understand that the part time 4x4 could cause bind the way that you have described. It is strange that in 4 years of ownership I have never experienced this problem. (Even using 4 high willy nilly when less than necessary). I checked the driver's side CV and there is oil on the inner CV joint. Now I'm wondering if I should replace the entire CV axle "half shaft". It seems like a pretty straight forward replacement, although I have never done one. Looking into parts on rockauto I need the part that doesn't have the manual locking diff. It's a 1996 3.4L manual with an "open diff" and I'm having a hard time choosing the right part. Any help is much appreciated!
 
I've been trying not to get sucked into these old threads. For all I know, the op, or others could be driving a totally different vehicle by now.
 
Yeah, I gotta learn when Jay replies to a "new" thread, I need to verify the OP original post date.
 
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