Search results

No....perhaps it's time that I bought one.

I have a Stant on my 18 Tacoma from it's second day home. I have trust issues. It's not what they can take out, it's what they can put in.

Just buy one with a inside baffle.

My truck has about 12.2K miles on my truck. I use Amsoil PI performer every 6K miles before my oil change as you do, and in the tank that I burn going to WV. I have bought CRC GDI intake valve cleaner, and will use that at 15K. A catch can will go on the vehicle as soon as the weather is warm...

I have the TRD air box and a K&N filter (you know, the one that kills your sensors if you are prone to over oil it). I've run regular, plus and premium in that truck. It likes Shell regular and Amoco premium. Both are close in performance, but the regular gas gives better mileage.

I'm not saying that oil analysis is a waste of time or money, because it isn't. My ex F-I-L was a boat captain on a charter deep sea fishing boat. That boat had oil analysis done on a regular basis and a book onboard with all of the results. When you are going thru 20 gallons of oil and four...

Mine feels like a lean miss when it stumbles. I had an update done about a year ago (mine is an 18, bought new) that cured a LOT of the stumble, but a small bit is still there. The fact that I am on the fuel pump recall makes me think the fuel pump is going south occasionally.

I change my oil and filter every 6K. Amsoil Signature 0W20, Toyota filter. Costs me $56. To send a sample to Blackstone Labs costs me $36, and will tell me how worn out my oil is, along with other things. For the additional $20 I have new oil and a new filter. A magnetic drain plug catches...

You can drain most of the transmission by disabling the electric fuel pump and/or the ignition and cranking the engine over when the transmission pan is off. You will remove about 2 to 3 quarts of fluid.

No matter what the vehicle, I do a trans fluid change and filter change every 30K miles. I use synthetic tranny oil.

Most if not all O2 sensors come with antisieze on the threads. If not, a Qtip and just a little on the threads. Get some on the sensor end and it kills the sensor early on in it's life. My son that "knows everything" found that out the hard way.

It's a costly shame when an engine goes south once, never mind twice. I read your post twice, and you didn't mention if you machine uses injection or premix. Just wondering.

Borla, hands down. I'm completely satisfied with mine.

I have had excellent from Duracell batteries. They are sealed lead acid and seem to last quite a long time. My neighbor has had his battery for 5 years and over 60K miles with no troubles. My two Duracell batteries are 3 and 5 years old, with 25K to 45K miles, no troubles. One thing I found...

Go to machinerylubrication.com That should give you the latest info.

Try engine flush.

It may not be piston slap, but a tight wrist pin. Varnish builds up on the wrist pin and pin bore in the piston, preventing easy movement. When the engine warms up, the piston expands and the pin moves more freely. I've used one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in a vehicle with that problem and...

Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and check vacuum at idle and above. Don't connect it to a ported vacuum source. A PCV line will work fine. The EGR could be opening at the wrong time or too far causing the problem. If the vacuum is good and then suddenly drops you either have a bad vacuum...

If your transmission uses a vacuum modulator, the line may be disconnected or leaking. Low vacuum at the modulator tells the transmission that the engine is under heavy load, such as climbing a steep hill or holding the pedal to the metal. Both will cause the transmission to upshift much later...

I like your plate.