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And you can reprogram your tpms sensors with the ATEQ quickset tool— got mine for approx $100 (tirerack) and it’s nice to have the light work properly with each set change.

Depending where you live invest in snow tires - I run Blizzaks during the winter on my factory rims as my Nittos were garbage the second the roads got cold and snowy *have them mounted on a separate set of rims with their own tpms sensors

Don’t reuse a heater core - they’re circa $40-80 new so don’t risk it. Get new orings too

Keep us posted on what you learn from the dealer — I’ve seen some rust on my lugnuts and other parts of my ‘18 OR but nothing that bad. I’m in Montana so it’s seen only 1 winter so far

I’d pull the wheels off and inspect the brakes and ABS connectors — it’s possibly there’s something wrong with one of the wires. My wife’s Audi just had a similar issue with her brake wear sensor. Somehow the wire got cut and was hanging on by a loose thread which sometimes caused the warning...

Second on vacuum leak — correct vacuum keeps the oil in the engine. Just turn it on and listen/run your hand over the lines to find the loose connection or bad hose.

If it really bothers you, you can take off the door-cards and secure everything down properly. And do the same when new rattles appear — annoying for sure but at least it’ll solve the problems

Another vote for kicker swap — pretty inexpensive and sound is much better. Not sure focals are worth the investment unless you’re replacing the head unit

Is the lock actuator on its way out? Something similar happened to me in my Audi and replacing the actuator fixed it.

What’s the distance between the bolt holes to attach the bracket to the truck? I’m curious as I have a Mk1 Audi TT that needs a front license plate bracket and this would be perfect if it fits

Nah, you can look them up by license plate anyways.

Yeah that definitely sucks — guessing you’ll always test your work before you close the door! I’ve also learned a few things the hard way

Invest in a set of panel removal tools (circa $20) as they’re super easy to remove if you do it enough times.

Mines a stick too. I can’t access first sometimes — curious if yours locks you out to the point where it only works if you throw into 2nd then back to 1st. Dealer sees manuals so rarely they have no basis for comparison.

Are you having any issues with your trans locking you out of gear? The dealer has been investigating my 18 TRDOR with no luck this far but it’s happened close to 10x out of the 5k miles I’ve had it

Try taking the door apart and reassembling — it’s easy to seat the cable back into the door latch. Post a pic of what you’re working with if it doesn’t work out

Find a parking lot when you’re up there and practice seeing what happens in diff situations. It’s best to have fun and know yourself and the truck so you don’t freak out when it happens on the real road

You could just reset the system to think normal tire pressure is like 10 psi. Then you’ll never have to worry about lows

Where’d you buy the cable and software?

It’s likely an entirely separate issue but since I was the OP on this thread I threw it in here. You’re right, def unrelated but potentially trans related. When I got the truck back they logged my new issue for the record but didn’t do any fixes. Separately also had the TSB 0059-18 for...