? Belts ?

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 346k on the 0D0
How are these drive belts looking?
Roughly 85k miles on 'em
I was trying to clean up that crank pulley with a cotton ball so maybe some fuzzy remnants of that left fwiw

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For the cost of belts...I'd replace them.

They are showing some edge wear.

Best way to check the belt is to look at the pulley side. Any glazing or shiny or concave sides or cracks means replacement.
 
i have some new belts on order from Toyota in Topeka
but i do not intend to have them off the truck for perhaps another 100k miles, unless the water pump starts weeping...
 
Keep the belts and tools for changing in the truck. You may find the need on the side of the highway.
 
Old Jeepers trick. Change belts before they fail. Then toss the recently removed belts into your spare parts carried during off road trips. I've had even fairly new betls break. Man made stuff fails from time to time long before it's supposed to.
 
I would think belts are an 'age' thing and not nessessarily a mileage thing
But ya IDK!
Don't know nothing 'bout nothing :confused:
 
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Its a crap shoot with belts how long they might last. Some are just made far better quality than others. I can tell you once you spot any crack in them, its time for replacement. I recently replaced the belts in a snowblower i rebuilt the auger assembly on...both the drive belt, and auger belt were toast, with the drive belt nearly broken in half. On my new holland tractor I've got the same aftermarket clutch belts i've had on since the 80's that run my pto's that are still in decent shape. The originals failed in 15 years. Pretty hard to beat these mitsubishi belts. I think the original ones were dayco.
 
the current belts do appear to have some outer edge wear
i can compare edges with new belts when they arrive

when i changed that fan blade and the viscous fan clutch coupler i had issues removing it from the pulley,,, it was a bad day that day trying to bump it off :confused: but i was fortunate to be close to the ignition and turnt it off immediately before chit hit fan, literally....
 
Generally, it is best practice to relieve the belt tension before removing/replacing. Typically, belts are tensioned by a spring load tension pully or some accessory that slides on a bracket.

Good Lord man. Don't be daft and get hurt with poor mechanic skills.

FWIW, I've had very good experience using Gates belts and drive products.

Another way to tell if the belts are worn. Place a straight edge across the pulley flanges, if the top of the belt is below the flange edge, then belt is worn needing replacement.
 
It's more about the trepidation of getting injured due to health concerns (early rigor mortis onset) than lack of mechanics skills or no skills, put this here is on the level of a parts changer and not mechanic level in any way... I usually am limited to 1&half arms under the vehicle on my shoulder and any reaching with both arms does something in the cervical that is absolut paralyzing :confused: brought me to my knees on many occasions...
 
Generally, it is best practice to relieve the belt tension before removing/replacing. Typically, belts are tensioned by a spring load tension pully or some accessory that slides on a bracket.

Good Lord man. Don't be daft and get hurt with poor mechanic skills.

FWIW, I've had very good experience using Gates belts and drive products.

Another way to tell if the belts are worn. Place a straight edge across the pulley flanges, if the top of the belt is below the flange edge, then belt is worn needing replacement.
I've done that, but the belt isn't necessarily bad, they tend to stretch some over time causing that. I've had several belts look that way, but after resetting the tension they were fine for a very long time.
 
they do sell a products at the autoParts store

CRC belt dressing conditioner

is it a thing to ever do on the Yota?



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879c for a small bottle
 
eeggaads....

Avoid belt dressing. Its a messy bandaid at best. Its a sticky tar like substance with a tendency to goo up everything.

If the belt is slipping, then it is worn or needs to be tightened. Most likely the belt needs to be replaced.

Leave the Canned Mechanic on the store shelf. These miracles in a can seldom cure the problem, but they are good for making the wallet lighter.
 
thank you for the input
i really did not know what to think when i saw that stuff on the shelf
asssumed it was used to prevent 'dry rot'
 
To my knowledge there is no effective product to "prevent dry rot".

The belt flexes around every pulley transmitting power on the sides of the belt. Not the top or the bottom. Only the sides transmit power. When the top of the belt is below the pulley flange that is an indication of the belt sides are worn. Belts are pretty cheap, although can be a PITA to replace, they endure a huge number of cycles.

I consider them a maintenance item that needs inspection. Any cracks, glazing, frayed edges, concave sides, top below pulley flanges........replacement time. I've probably replaced a few prematurely, but I have never had a failed belt leave me stranded. I do a visual inspection at each oil change. I do this while waiting for the oil container to finish draining. Takes all of about 30-60 seconds to inspect.

The wide poly-v type belts are difficult to inspect for concave sides or top below pulley. Just look for cracks, glazing, frayed edges. Always look at both sides of the belt.
 
+ the midWest has ample dewpoint to retard any early dry rot
its not like so in the southern arid desert areas
 
I've used the same sticky crc belt dressing on my tundras serpentine belt when it got noisy. It worked well for a month or so till the noise came back. I was too cheap to replace the belt...it only had about 150k on it.
 
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