Bilistein 5100 lift

The front coilovers will lift but the rear shocks do not add lift. You will need an AAL or a block (****ty).

See if you can swing the eibach coils for the front.
 
Why the front coils?
I ask because I'm getting ready to order the 0" to 2.5" 5100's for my "2015 4wd TRD Sport" through Suspension Connection(best prices I've found).
I'm on a tight budget and don't off road much. When I do off road, I'm not out getting rough, just traveling so I just want more clearance to avoid bottoming out on ruts and such. With that in mind I would like to lift it about 3" and level it a bit. My order this far includes the 5100's for the front,
Tuff Country 2" AAL's,
2° Shims and
rear SX8000nitro Gas Shocks w/2" to 3" lift.
Any input on my selection would be appreciated. I don't have much experience with lifting, just reading a lot on this forum. This looks like I won't get much leveling to speak of so I'm wondering if the Eibach coils you recommend will add any more lift. I think 3.5" to 4 in the front to the 2" in the rear would be ideal.
 
Ok, I'll look up the wheelers.
Do the coils and shocks together increase lift any from the 2.5" that the shocks alone imply or improve ride quality only?
 
You can get 3 inches from it but that's it because you run into the limits of other suspension components and in the case of a 4wd...the CVs.
 
Ok, good to know. BTW I'm going with the Wheeler AAL's you recommended, thanks, plus the front 5100's are a little cheaper through Wheeler also.
Hope you don't mind all the questions considering I didn't start this thread. So do I understand correctly that I would set the new shocks at the max height 2.5" and install them with the Eibach coils and this will achieve 3" of lift total? Also I'm having difficulty finding the correct coil for this truck. Again it's a 2015 Tacoma TRD sport and I appreciate any input.
 
Another question. I'm not familiar with the term "coilover". Do I need to be? Is this when a coil and shock come together pre assembled for easier installation and should I be looking for this instead of buying the parts separately?
 
Not too sure what setting you would need for the full 3 inches since I never really looked at 5100s for myself. Keep in mind that you may need upper control arms to get the alignment right.

Coilover is the type of suspension the Tacoma uses.
 
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Another question. I'm not familiar with the term "coilover". Do I need to be? Is this when a coil and shock come together pre assembled for easier installation and should I be looking for this instead of buying the parts separately?
You should become familiar with the suspension we have. I started too like you knowing squat. You need to decide if you want to take pics of your truck or do you want to improve your capability. Blocks and spacers do lift but do not upgrade. Your call.
 
It's not looks I'm after. Occasionally I drive on some bumpy dirt roads and even being slow and careful it's still easy for various parts of the truck to scrape the ground here and there. I've driven these same roads in little cars, you just have to be a little more careful through the ruts and bumps. So what's the point in having a 4wd if you're still hitting the ground on roads that cars travel on? That's not what I spent over $30k for. That's a lot of money to me and I don't like hearing things hit the ground. I need more clearance for better functionality but I don't rough-house in it either. I don't have money to burn so I'd like to gain around 2 in the back and 3 in the front on a budget without buy junk parts that don't last.
Hopefully that paints a clearer picture of my desires. Of course it would also ease my mind to know I could go through some rougher terrain if I needed to without being afraid that I'll tear up my undercarriage on wimpy ground.
 
I like the advise I've read from experienced people in this forum and since I'm only planning on spending around $500, I'm confident I can get some trustworthy recommendations here, which I do appreciate very much.
 
Okay. Well coilovers are what your front end rides on. You can keep the stock ones and get the 5100's (shocks) set to where you want. Far cheaper than replacing the entire coilover with a longer shock that will upgrade your suspension.
 
This is what I'm looking at so far, hopefully I wont need more than this:

Bilstein 5100 0" to 2.5" Adjustable Ft shock ......1 pair = $175
OME 1.5" lift Coil Springs...................................1 pair = $170
Wheelers 2" AAL................................................1 pair = $77
Tuff Country SX8000 Rr Shock for 2" to 3" lift....1 pair = $81
2° Rr Axle Shims.................................................1 pair = $23
Total..................$526
plus shipping.....

I was looking for Eibach coils but haven't been able to find them for my truck. Anyone know if OME is a good product?
 
Another question just to further my education. What makes the adjustable 5100's superior over another descent shock with spacers?
 
Valving? Who's to say some other non-adjustable shock absorber can't employ equivalent valving? In which case as far as preload is concerned, I fail to see how the truck knows the difference between being preloaded by a spacer rather than by an adjustable plate. Again, I'm just trying to get a cheap education, not disagree with anyone.
 
Valving? Who's to say some other non-adjustable shock absorber can't employ equivalent valving? In which case as far as preload is concerned, I fail to see how the truck knows the difference between being preloaded by a spacer rather than by an adjustable plate. Again, I'm just trying to get a cheap education, not disagree with anyone.
U asked, i answered.
U can buy any rebuildable shock u want and have it valved any way u want, but thats not a 5100. With a 5100 u get the spacer basically and valving to help compensate for preload. It aint perfect but they tried.

And if u cant figure out how a spacer works compared to a 5100, well maybe its because the 5100 employs an upside down version of...... a spacer.

So go ahead and copy the design if u want, it aint revolutionary, **** eibach did. Get the valving right for the right preload and it should ride better than the 5100 which is probably a middle ground of valving since its not gunna be able to change its guts to work with 0 lift vs the 2.5 setting.

The TRUCK doesnt know the difference between the perch vs spacer. Hope that helps.

Its just the very poor mans adjustable coilover.... same with the version that uses threaded bodied 5100s that toytec sells. The problem with them maxed out is.....it rides like a tank. But i bet if it was end user rebuildable u could fix that harshness.

How far down the rabbit hole do u want to go over a cheap ass shock?
 
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