Factory Batteries

WooD

WooD

WooD
I bought my truck on Halloween day 2018. Had it in for a oil change last year, and ask them to check the battery. They said it was perfect.

Took it in August 15th for a oil change and asked them again to check the battery. Perfect again.

Went out today, and it was graveyard dead. No slow turning over, nor even a click. Used my NOCO jump starter to get it to Advance Auto for a new battery, AC was blowing hot air. Thought that was odd. After the new battery it was nice and cold.

Can't figure the battery being good on the 15th and dieing 10 days later. Today was the first day I've drove it since the oil change. My mom is a FL snowbird and bought a car to keep down here year round so she can fly down anytime she wants. My trucks spent most of the summer in the garage on a battery tender. Maybe that's what gave the false reading, or it just decided to die. I've had 4 Mustangs, and one Explorer that would give zero advance notice of a bad battery. One day it would be fine the next dead. I at least like a slow turn over warning.
 
I always trust other people when it comes to my major investments, NOT
I marked my filters on my 4.0L, a dealer tech shortcut the process once, never changed the filter, they were so sorry, (THAT I CAUGHT THEM)
Change my own now, and forever
 
TexasKen said:
I always trust other people when it comes to my major investments, NOT
I marked my filters on my 4.0L, a dealer tech shortcut the process once, never changed the filter, they were so sorry, (THAT I CAUGHT THEM)
Change my own now, and forever
Click to expand...

This is the first ride I've ever owned that I have never changed the oil in.

Dealership has a 20 year 200K mile drivetrain warranty. I asked the sales dude how that would work with me doing my own oil changes. He said to keep the receipts for the oil and filter and it should be okay.

I figure I'd just let them do the oil changes, plus it will be noted on a CarFax that the service was performed by the dealership.
 
5 year old OEM battery sudden death. Sounds normal to me.

These maintenance free batteries typically have sudden death. The old lead/acid batts would give an indication of being on their stages of life.


The battery in my '06 is 7 years old. Its an Interstate. Don't know how it has lasted as long as it has. I do know, it will be changed this fall. I need to work through more pressing mechanical issues first.
 
WooD said:
This is the first ride I've ever owned that I have never changed the oil in.

Dealership has a 20 year 200K mile drivetrain warranty. I asked the sales dude how that would work with me doing my own oil changes. He said to keep the receipts for the oil and filter and it should be okay.

I figure I'd just let them do the oil changes, plus it will be noted on a CarFax that the service was performed by the dealership.
Click to expand...
I always participated with the 24 months 24K dealer freebies, all I can tell you is, trust but verify
 
Every battery for the last 25 years I've had, has been sudden death...no warning before they totally crap out. You have to periodically have them load checked for weakness below 12.5 volts.
As far as replacement batteries, I've only gotten deka's. They seem to always outlast everyones batteries by a couple years.
 
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i got 6 out of my factory . got a new interstate one ,guy at interstate they make toyota factoy batteries ? how true is that ? who knows?
 
i fear that my '97 taco battery could fail now out of nowhere that it is 8.5 years of age
 
My bet is that the mechanic(s) either did not test the battery or simply used a multimeter instead of a load meter — the latter being way more precise.

Now that you have a new battery, test the alternator. It’s probably fine but give yourself a sense of security. It only takes 15 minutes or so with a multimeter.

Additionally, as trivial as I know it sounds, make sure that your alternator belt and screws are taught. Believe me when I say that you would be shocked how many people complain about electrical problems which come down to a loose alternator connection to the positive lug on the battery.

Lastly, invest in a small voltage meter. Keep it in your cabin. Blue Sea Systems makes some great ones which are sold on Amazon. You could also use a ScanGauge. Either way, it behooves you to monitor the voltage. Batteries seldom die; but wouldn’t it be nice to see that coming ahead of time, especially on a road trip? Generally speaking, you want a voltage between 13.7 and 14.3 while driving. It is OK if the voltage dips to 13.4 during idle, especially if you have a high voltage alternator, but the closer to 14 — the better.

P.S. I believe the battery warning light only activates at about 13 volts; however, I am basing that off memory so don’t quote me on that. The operative thing to know is — the warning light is only activated well after a problem exists.
 
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If testing with a volt/ohm meter, generally anything in the 12.5 volt range is showing a weak battery.
 
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