? front suspension support sub-assy... aka shock mount... OEM or A/M gen1

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... MT. 279k miles
how long in approximation are the OEM shock mounts good for?
is it better to stick OEM at the high cost or goto A/M mounts if they is zero difference with quality and longevity

part 48603/48609 in this diagram for Gen1 taco


480162E.png

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us...hassis/4803_front-spring-shock-absorber#48603


this is price for OEM
82$ after 31% off
MSRP is 119$
https://parts.lewistoyota.com/p/63368667/48609-35010.html
 

tacojoel

Well-Known Member
Depends where the truck is driven, and when the shocks should be replaced. Drive the truck on bad roads with bad shocks, and it gets expensive. Take care of rust proofing those areas where the shocks mount, drive on good roads, and they should last the life of the vehicle with normal maintenance.
 

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... MT. 279k miles
my query has become which is a better shock mount insulator, the Toyota part# or an aftermarket such as a KYB assembly, there is a price difference by about 20$ or so from OEM at the discount from MSRP

they are made out of rubber so my originals are probably shot due to age and i was looking to replace them
there is also some pivot bearing inside the insulator i have learned and the original assemblies that were recently removed had some nice crust on them from the underside

if i do not like the handling of the monroe quickstruts recently put on i am going to try KYB front shocks but i cannot seem to find them in an assembly so I would need to compress the original springs and swap new stuff in

my confusion comes with if it was actually the Bilstein 5100s that were failing, somebody noted they were leaking but IDK what to look for (i had a bit of corrosion free spray and grime build up all over those assemblies) or was it the old insulator mounts that were shot and casing all kinds of banging noise on the simplest of bad bumps between pavement sections

i don't like to waste & throw good $$$ on stuff such as this, there are better things to waste it on :mad:
 

tacojoel

Well-Known Member
my query has become which is a better shock mount insulator, the Toyota part# or an aftermarket such as a KYB assembly, there is a price difference by about 20$ or so from OEM at the discount from MSRP

they are made out of rubber so my originals are probably shot due to age and i was looking to replace them
there is also some pivot bearing inside the insulator i have learned and the original assemblies that were recently removed had some nice crust on them from the underside

if i do not like the handling of the monroe quickstruts recently put on i am going to try KYB front shocks but i cannot seem to find them in an assembly so I would need to compress the original springs and swap new stuff in

my confusion comes with if it was actually the Bilstein 5100s that were failing, somebody noted they were leaking but IDK what to look for (i had a bit of corrosion free spray and grime build up all over those assemblies) or was it the old insulator mounts that were shot and casing all kinds of banging noise on the simplest of bad bumps between pavement sections

i don't like to waste & throw good $$$ on stuff such as this, there are better things to waste it on :mad:
All i can say is the monroe's worked fine on my gen1 tundra. Maybe i'm not as fussy?, but i didn't notice any difference. I would of preferred kyb, but the monroe's were slap them on, and go. I replaced the rear shocks with kyb.
 

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... MT. 279k miles
All i can say is the monroe's worked fine on my gen1 tundra. Maybe i'm not as fussy?, but i didn't notice any difference. I would of preferred kyb, but the monroe's were slap them on, and go. I replaced the rear shocks with kyb.
IDK! Perhaps the truck is also in need of new rack bushings to stop the other jolting noise that is still there

I did wheel it at speed limit on a very broken patch of i80 and things handled much better than before I
 

tacojoel

Well-Known Member
IDK! Perhaps the truck is also in need of new rack bushings to stop the other jolting noise that is still there

I did wheel it at speed limit on a very broken patch of i80 and things handled much better than before I
At 180k miles the rack went on my tundra...began leaking faster than i could fill it. Found a bunch of holes rusted through.....couldn't believe toyota use a steel rack, and not aluminum. I had to replace the rack, new steel lines to the pump, and tie rod ends.
 
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