Gen2 2.7L 2tr-fe -- accessory drive belt tensioner & idler pulleys

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 360k on the 0D0
'11 Single Cab Tacoma AT with the AC
70707 miles

odd noises are everywhere but where!?
do these parts all wear out in just 12 years?
is every Gen2 with this engine having to do this??


162$
27$ ... this part may come with the prior part drive belt tensioner assembly
is just the pulley needed OR THE WHOLE TENSIONER ASSEMBLY ??
52$
64$
 
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diagrams of parts...



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Instead of just shotgunning everything, why can't you just isolate it to what the noisy part is? I would start with these belt tensioners, or even the belt itself. You'd have to remove the belt to check for any roughness, or noise in those tensioners by spinning them.
 
Instead of just shotgunning everything, why can't you just isolate it to what the noisy part is? I would start with these belt tensioners, or even the belt itself. You'd have to remove the belt to check for any roughness, or noise in those tensioners by spinning them.

i hope its NOT that tensioner assy that is shot and making the belt squeal, that cost good coin even with the 31% off MSRP
and then i have no clue how to get it off and replace it

also i am referencing that Car Nut video on the block replacement for ALL of this education lol
its ALL at the 16 minute mark

 
As I have suggested before.

Remove the belt, start the engine. Does the noise still exist? If no, then its likely a pulley bearing or belt slipping. If yes, then the problem is elsewhere.

Basic trouble diagnosis.

Suggest replacing all pulleys and tensioner with a new belt. Look to RockAuto as a part source. May save you some coin.
The tensioner is a real bitch to get off the 1GR-FE Gen2 V-6. It is mounted between the block and the AC compressor. The space is tight and access is poor.

Something to consider. A weak tensioner spring will allow belt slippage. So, consider replacing the tensioner as an assembly.
 
I have no clue yet how to remove that belt!!
But I did find a YouTube tutorial showing you have to literally push on the tensioner somehow to get the needed slack
Then do I need to remove the fan shroud to be able to reach belt and get it out from behind the fan?
 
Simple.

Use a breaker bar and a socket on the tensioner arm.

No need to remove the fan.
 
perhaps it would be less of a challenge getting at it from underneath on the shoulder and removing the rotted plate that needs replaced when the part arrives, i am not the tallest thing going and there may be WAY too much of a reach over that shroud!
 
I've always replaced the serpentine belt on my tundra starting from below, even if it required removing the engine skid plate which was plastic on that truck.
 
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