P0430 code...2006 V6

S

snptoyo

Member
Anyone have issues with this code? Coming up as the O2 sensor to the rear of the cat, or the cat itself. Runs fine when the light comes on, no operational issues. Have read about all kinds of tricks (paint thinner in the fuel, Sea Foam in the cat tube, anti-foul tubes to bolt the sensor into). I can erase the code, but its coming back on after about 100 miles. Truck only has 158,000 so Im thinking, Im running it hard now and blowing out some of the junk in the cat.
 
O2 sensors have a definite life. I replaced those on my GMC at 98K. It was fall, and with my luck, they would have failed when it was 12 degrees outside and sleeting sideways. At 158K you are well past their lifetime.

I replaced all four and never had a problem. If one is going bad, the other three are on their way to attend its funeral. I've used Bosch and Denso on vehicles.
 
I had the same thing. It was the rear O2 sensor. This vehicle was a Toyota Rav 4. I did a vid on how to check the sensor. It was intermittent but I found the problem.

 
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Well.....after replacing both sensors on the down stream side of the CATS, things seemed fine for the last 260 miles. Then out of know where it threw the code 430 code again. Guess the only thing left is to replace the CAT.
 
Before replacing the CAT, I'd make sure there are no faulty spark plugs or coils causing intermittent misfires. Vacuum leaks, as well as bad injectors, can also be at fault.

If the downstream O2 sensor voltage isn't fluctuating widely, the CAT isn't bad.
 
Updates....
Well, I rest the codes and continued to drive it. Then the check engine light went off on its own after 360 miles, right after I walked out of the muffle shop and ordered the new CAT. I had them replace it anyways. Doing the temp check and pressure checks showed it to be dying. Truck ran great after picking it up, then threw the code again last night after 115 miles on the new CAT.
I know the plugs are good, so I guess its time to dig a bit deeper.
 
You should also look to see if you have any exhaust leaks in front of the convertor. Possibly by the flange. I shot a vid, its not up on my channel yet of the exact same code on a Toyota, the exhaust flange was rounded (don't ask me how that happened) and no one could figure it out. It was a small leak at the flange. I replaced the O2 anyway as I thought it was taking too long to respond. If you are interested I can ensure that vid gets posted next week. I still have to edit it. I was able to fix the flange with a hammer. Sometimes I can't believe it straightened out so nicely.
 
I have the same code, but also a C1201when I hit the ABS function on my reader. My traction control light is coming on at the same time as the engine light. Reader said bad sensor, so I replaced the downstream O2 sensor on the driver’s side. Lasted maybe 100 miles, then intermittent, now on all the time. New brake lines going to the rear as of a week ago, so I thought maybe that was related. Had a HELL of a time getting one sensor out and not looking forward to wrestling with three more. 2011 Taco with 75k mi. Noticed mileage seems to have dropped off a little as well. Thoughts?
 
So, after much reading and terrifying results after inserting jumpers into various holes, turning keys off / on in different sequences, inaccurate videos created by loons, repair scams, and testers that were unreliable at absolute best, I took a deep breath and went with common sense. All my data pointed to codes that didn’t make sense together, so I did a ECM reset and zero point calibration. This is the best video I found. It’s simple, accurate, and it worked.
The pic of the ODB is accurate for my 2011 (pay careful attention to orientation, and double check to make sure this is your truck’s configuration). I drove a lot of miles to test everything out and so far it’s holding.o_O
 

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