Spark plugs on 2TRFE 2700CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI... when do they need changed?

JayQQ97

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 360k on the 0D0
these are the part# from Toyota parts page

Spark Plug - Toyota (90919-01191)​


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7,74$ after 32off
MSRP is 11,40$

2005-2022 Toyota Spark Plug 90919-01191 | Ourisman Toyota of Richmond Online Parts

2005-2022 Toyota Spark Plug 90919-01191
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com


Spark Plug #90919-01191 | Autoparts.toyota.com

Boost your Toyota's performance and fuel efficiency with our genuine Spark Plug. Essential for optimal combustion, it ensures safe and reliable driving.
autoparts.lewistoyota.com

TOYOTA TACOMATRN240L-TRPDKA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - IGNITION COIL SPARK PLUG | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA TACOMATRN240L-TRPDKA , IGNITION COIL SPARK PLUG
www.japan-parts.eu www.japan-parts.eu
 
2o11 rig has 73k miles
its the 4 bangar

dealer wants 199$ to change the 4
but not needed until 90k miles
IDK
 
IIRC, the 4 cylinder engine needs the iridium plugs. Check the manual for change interval and verify plug type.

Can't say about the $199 quote to change them. I don't know how complex access is on the 4 cyl.

I know on my 1GR-FE, i need just under an hour to change all 6 plugs for roughly $30 in parts.
 
Its 30k miles for regular el-cheapo plugs
60k miles for iridium ones.
Imo, if you're unable to replace the plugs on a 4 cylinder, you should give up driving one. Even the 6 and the 8 aren't too bad. I was able to change the plugs on my 2001 tundra v8 in 20 minutes. This 3.5 v6 is much more compact, but should be doable in a couple hrs.
 
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tacojoel said:
Its 30k miles for regular el-cheapo plugs
60k miles for iridium ones.
Imo, if you're unable to replace the plugs on a 4 cylinder, you should give up driving one. Even the 6 and the 8 aren't too bad. I was able to change the plugs on my 2001 tundra v8 in 20 minutes. This 3.5 v6 is much more compact, but shout be doable in a couple hrs.
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i am not able to reach in there with both hands deep into engine bay like that without neck seizing and paralyzing upper extremities
first time i noticed not being able to do this i was changing the fan fluid coupler and charred fan blade on my '97 rig... i just broke down in shame :confused: that i became some useless weak piece of humane waste
 
JayQQ97 said:
i am not able to reach in there with both hands deep into engine bay like that without neck seizing and paralyzing upper extremities
first time i noticed not being able to do this i was changing the fan fluid coupler and charred fan blade on my '97 rig... i just broke down in shame :confused: that i became some useless weak piece of humane waste
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You need to get one of these step ladders with a platform that you can lay above the engine on, like I have. I had a stroke several years ago that limited me to perform the same duties, I had no issues doing before. Just takes me a bit longer now. It's a matter of overcoming a disability to get the job done.
 
JayQQ97 said:
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Any tech worth their weight should check the gap on a new plug before installing it. I've run Into plugs that were not pre-gapped properly, or the outer electrode was bent. Also if an aluminum head, one should paste a little never seize on the plug threads.
 
tacojoel said:
You need to get one of these step ladders with a platform that you can lay above the engine on, like I have. I had a stroke several years ago that limited me to perform the same duties, I had no issues doing before. Just takes me a bit longer now. It's a matter of overcoming a disability to get the job done.
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Agreed.

You can overcome or play the victim card.

The victim card is very tiring. Its also become the "go to" for many people.

Many handicap people have overcome more severe challenges to live and function. I know a mechanic who is missing 1 arm performing all sorts of work on vehicles.
 
After what I've been through from suffering a stroke, I guess its one thing to be independently wealthy, or just mechanically inept , but I don't have much encouragement for those who have good limbs, are healthy, if they don't at least try.
 
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I must revisit this...
almost Nearing 95k miles on gen2
There is no noticeable running issues
But perhaps sucky mpg, if that is a thing with old plugs
 
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i have to learn myself how to check spark plug gapping
they are Yota dealershop bot in red Yota box but it was mentioned a good idea to check the gapping
something i have not ever done before ever :confused:
 
It's commonsense to check the gap on any plug before you Install it. Also use a SMALL amount of never-seize on the plug threads when you install them.
 
i changed mine at 117403k miles and they were so clean they probably could go another 100k miles looked premature at 120k(manual) IMO but stick to what the manual states. and also these iridium plugs do not need to be gapped, NOR DO THEY REQUIRE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE THREADS. i replaced mine with the same Long Life plugs #3421 that came out from the factory @ ROCKAUTO.
 
billssr5 said:
i changed mine at 117403k miles and they were so clean they probably could go another 100k miles looked premature at 120k(manual) IMO but stick to what the manual states. and also these iridium plugs do not need to be gapped, NOR DO THEY REQUIRE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE THREADS. i replaced mine with the same Long Life plugs #3421 that came out from the factory @ ROCKAUTO.
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did you have any issues breaking them free for the first time?
 
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