Squealing serpentine belt.

Wayno

New Member
Have belt squealing on my 2011 Tacoma. Have had 3 pulleys replaced, then tensioner replaced and latest is the water pump. Also, 3 new belts installed and still have squealing. All toll over $1,500.00 spent and getting tired of no solution. Have heard about a different type of belt, a Gatorbelt, but cannot find one for my truck. Need help.
 
Have belt squealing on my 2011 Tacoma. Have had 3 pulleys replaced, then tensioner replaced and latest is the water pump. Also, 3 new belts installed and still have squealing. All toll over $1,500.00 spent and getting tired of no solution. Have heard about a different type of belt, a Gatorbelt, but cannot find one for my truck. Need help.
Damn, have you tried a factory belt?
 
currently running into this whiny squeal on the relative's '11 single cab rig... most noticeable during these cold winter days
4 cylinder (obviously) and is almost at 70k mileage

where to start??

i've read a decent way to isolate if it just the belt is to wet it up and see if the squeal goes away
it does squeal at idle and barely goes away, fairly constant to an alert ear
 
Have belt squealing on my 2011 Tacoma. Have had 3 pulleys replaced, then tensioner replaced and latest is the water pump. Also, 3 new belts installed and still have squealing. All toll over $1,500.00 spent and getting tired of no solution. Have heard about a different type of belt, a Gatorbelt, but cannot find one for my truck. Need help.
It is likely a weak spring on the tensionor arm. Sure you have replaced pulleys and belts, but if the belt tension is low, then the belt will slip making the squeal. Replacing all those items multiple times.....the problem is unlikely to be there.

You could make a quickie test to check. Remove the belt, start the engine. Is the squeal still there? If so, then the problem is not in the serp system.

Other things to check are the accessories being driven by the belt. AC compressor, Alternator, PS pump..... While the belt is off, try turning the pulleys on those accessories by hand, if any drag or feel rough or hard to turn, then that is a suspect for a problem source.

FWIW, I've never had a Gates belt let me down in consumer or commercial or industrial use.

<edit> Sorry, just reread the original post to see you have replaced the tensioner.
Suggest to focus on examining the accessories for free rotation.
<endedit>
 
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how involving is removing and putting back the belt on the 4cyl

can you not just 'wet it' such as i read about and mentioned prior to check
 
Don't waste time with shortcuts. They typically lead you down a bad path. Besides, how can you check the accessories with the belt installed???

Typically, removal is an easy process when the tensioner is released.
 
If the tensioner was like my old tundra it had a place where you could stick a rod through it to hold the tensioner back for easy belt removal.
 
Don't waste time with shortcuts. They typically lead you down a bad path. Besides, how can you check the accessories with the belt installed???

Typically, removal is an easy process when the tensioner is released.

with the temporary wet belt method i believe the belt WILL NOT GRIP anything and stay stationary whilst the pulley stuff is a turning??
 
what time and/or mileage is this serp belt even rec'd to be replaced? on the 4cyl ... is the 6cyl much different

or is that upto the Yota slop shops to determine the need for a new belt?
 
Don't waste time with shortcuts. They typically lead you down a bad path. Besides, how can you check the accessories with the belt installed???

Typically, removal is an easy process when the tensioner is released.

i wouldn't even know what tensioner looks like or where its at!
shall have to look at some diagrams and get educated :confused:
 
acc. drive belt tensioner

234$ MSRP
161$ discounted


or just pulley for 39$ msrp

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The spring inside the tensioner arm is the item that provides and controls the belt tension. A pully only rotates. If the tensioner is shot, then the entire arm needs to be replaced not just the pulley.

Belts will have varying replacement intervals. The best method is to inspect the belt.

If any of the following situations are found, then its time to replace.
Cracking either top or groove side
Fraying of the edges.
Glazing (shiny) areas.
Missing ribs or parts of ribs.
Separation of the belt layers or cords.

This inspect is easily done with the belt in place. I spend roughly 3 minutes each oil change to make a quick inspection of the belt.
 
with the temporary wet belt method i believe the belt WILL NOT GRIP anything and stay stationary whilst the pulley stuff is a turning??
The "wet" method you believe in will not work. The belt gets wet when the vehicle goes through a water puddle at speed. The resulting splash will enter the engine bay wetting the belt and pulleys. Just a couple of revolutions will clear any water.

Just release the tensioner.
 
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