You shouldn't have to cut anything out, I used a 3' pry bar and gently pried out the fender to push the bolt head past. Leave the big flat washer down by the control arm. There was a wiring harness that I had to unclip to let the bolt slide by. I also reinstalled the long A arm bolt backwards to not fight the fender again.View attachment 19896 View attachment 19895 Ok, I’m replacing uca on passenger side. Bent the fender inner structure but there is a second support welded to it and it’s too strong to bend. Is the only alternative to cut the piece out?
2015 Tacoma 4x4
42” bolt cutters from harbor freight use one of those 20 or 25% coupons bring it to about $25 https://www.harborfreight.com/42-in-bolt-cutters-61321.htmlThe problem is there is a second plate welded to the inner fender shield that the power steering reservoir sits on. I can’t get that area to budge. SPC tech says they have seen this problem and best to cut the bolt. So now so now I’ll order the two bolts from Toyota and try again in a couple days. Got to put it back together and get it out of the driveway. Bull **** is all I can say. Must be a problem with 2015 as they told me only a few issues like mine. Look at the pic. You can see I’m screwed.
You just need to bend it more you can get it out the passenger side is like that on all of them my 2010 was just like that don’t be afraid to bend that piece of metal then tap the bolt out with something from the opposite side
42” bolt cutters from harbor freight use one of those 20 or 25% coupons bring it to about $25 https://www.harborfreight.com/42-in-bolt-cutters-61321.html
Done... Next step...I have an air compressor and cut-off wheel.
If you have to cut it to get it out, how are you going to get the new one in? I've done this on a third gen so it may not be the same, but I would be very surprised if something was in the way that couldn't be temporarily removed or bent as well. Can you take a pic of the power steering wheel reservoir is in your way? I'm curious
Pics when it's all done!Update, for those with a 2015 4x4 v6 who plan to install upper control arms I recommend cutting the passenger side bolt head off to remove it VS trying to bend the inner fender. The bolt is $17 and took about 1 minute to cut the head off and slide it out. I spent an hour trying to bend and beat the inner fender and still couldn't get it to clear. The driver side was way easier and minor bending of the inner fender. That bolt came out easily and the new one also went back in with no issues. I'll be taking it in for alignment tomorrow. Going with caster at 3.4 driver and 3.6 passenger. Camber will be .02 driver and .02-.04 passenger. Toe .02 and .02. These were recommended by SPC and Toytec. Also by a forum member.
Bolt cuttersUpdate, for those with a 2015 4x4 v6 who plan to install upper control arms I recommend cutting the passenger side bolt head off to remove it VS trying to bend the inner fender. The bolt is $17 and took about 1 minute to cut the head off and slide it out. I spent an hour trying to bend and beat the inner fender and still couldn't get it to clear. The driver side was way easier and minor bending of the inner fender. That bolt came out easily and the new one also went back in with no issues. I'll be taking it in for alignment tomorrow. Going with caster at 3.4 driver and 3.6 passenger. Camber will be .02 driver and .02-.04 passenger. Toe .02 and .02. These were recommended by SPC and Toytec. Also by a forum member.
Bolt cutters
cut-off wheel.......
Good advice. You might save some poor dude a couple of hours and a lot of cussing with this thread in the future. Lol
My 2010 and 2017 were no problem and straight forward, maybe it's something different about the 14-15's. Who knows. Glad you finally got it taken care of!Hopefully.....this was supposed to be a bolt on less than 1 hour per side. Well, that might be true on older Tacoma's but not on my 2015. Not sure it the new Taco's inner fenders are the same and in the way. Hopefully Toyota changed them to allow for clearance.