Discussion in 'General Tacoma Discussion' started by ethanbsat, Oct 27, 2015.
I'm lifting my 2010 trd off-road 4x4 and I'm not sure if I can fit 33s with the bilstein 5100 2.5"
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No. At least 3" of lift.
Since I know nothing about Toyotas I'll chime in. OME 2884 or 2885 springs depending on additional weight you add and height you want. With Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts will allow 2-3" of lift. But, the body mounts will need to be cut and the better way is to weld plate over what's left and paint!
I find a pic finished in a sec.
This being said. You change the cv axle geometry/ angles. Sometimes this is a problem if your going to keep it for years and put hundreds of thousands of miles on it. The joints will wear out more quickly with regular street driving. Even more quickly off roading often.
Also, if you have a Toyota factory 7.5" wide rim of some kind. You'll need wheel spacers of 1 1/4" minimally. Some people say don't use them for the potential of wearing out wheel bearings/ hubs more quickly. I haven't had any trouble with 1 1/2" on my FJ for 188,000 miles or putting 28,000 on my taco. They are coming off the taco this week for 17"X 9" rims with - -12 mm offset and 4.5 " of back spacing. Before my 6" BDS lift that I just did a month ago. I ran 7.5" sport factory wheels with 285/70-17" BFG KO's body mount chop and those 1 1/4" hub centric wheel spacers!
Anything else you'd like to know ask we'll help !
So could i fit 33s on this rough country 3 front 2 rear?
Not saying silver is wrong, he knows his stuff... But if you get tires that are narrow enough you don't need to cut the body mounts, I had 33's on mine with a 3" lift, no rubbing anywhere, that's with the FJ TRD rims... Which I think are 7"... I currently have 32's that again have no rubbing, even with flexing, never tried flexing with 33's to see if they rubbed...
It'll make the truck look great , but, depending on your rims 285's will more than likely rub body mount and maybe the UCA. You can do it and if the rubbing drives you crazy change the rims cut the body mounts.
My new BFG KO 2's 35" x12.5" are rubbing the swaybar with the factory 7.5" sport wheels and 1 1/4" wheel spacers! Hopefully my rims come in tomorrow!
Hey sliver.with what you said about the change to the angle of the cv joints.what your thoughts on diff spacer.i heard you need them and I've heard you dont.i won't be higher then 2.5 in the front.i would think you have them due to your lift.
All the diff spacers do is change the input drive shaft angle into the front diff. They don't change the angles the drive shafts have from diff to bearing/ hub assembly that your wheels bolt to.
Yeah after looking up some other threads on it seems more like a negative then positive.
I don't have pics that I can find. But, two cast pieces support the front diff assembly. They run front to back under your front axle assembly. They have a circular front with a bolt going through the middle of it. The kit has two aluminum 1" spacers. You take out the bolt pry with a bar the cast support down insert spacer use longer bolt. Same on the other side. This brings the front of each support 1" closer to the ground tilting the rear of the assembly up where the front drive shaft comes in helping it become closer to factory! Two problems with this for me! 1 my front skid now sits 1" clients to the ground which I don't want ! 2 my cv drive shafts are at the same jacked increased angles! I took them out! Bought a 6" BDS Kit that allowed 35's and decreased the front cv axle angles a few degrees closer to factory.
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