needing a new MT clutch procedure

JayQQ97

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 360k on the 0D0
so i got my estimate yesterday for this procedure
truck has almost 275k and its being a buggard especially in the early cold morning backUp and out the driveway... seems like its sticky
the estimate is 1800$... which includes some part that is over 700$ that i am having trouble locating on any diagram to check that nasty price, i think its the flywheel?

i need to make sure that EVERYTHING is done as it should when the whole transmission is out and things are readily accessible, seals gaskets bearings etc.
what do you suggest i also get new parts and seals requested to be redone so i don't waste my time and good coin

last time a vehicle of mine needed a new clutch was a long time ago in 1991 on the old '78 which had less than 90k miles onit, previous owner of that car probably rode the clutch pedal hard to have it go out so soon IDK
 
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tacojoel said:
You do know they resurface flywheels. I've never had to replace one unless way out of spec.
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yes, i have heard this before in my R&D on the interWebs
the workorder includes flywheel inspection... but also has the needed parts listed maybe just in case its not resurfaceable and have one on hand to install IDK
 
i've researched that its a good idea to also have the RMS rear main engine seal replaced whilst stuff is disassembled for clutch replacement
whether that RMS is needing replaced OR NOT
since if it does start leaking engine oil before the next clutch bearing is needing replaced (assuming after half-a-million milestone is reached if its anything like the first) it would be about as much labour to remove stuff to get at that rear main seal, into the 100s of $$$
 
Yeah, i can seereplacing a new real main seal on an enginge with over 100k miles, makes good sense. Really haven't seen, or heard of anyone having to replace a new flywheel though. Usually they just need to be resurfaced.
 
Once upon a lifetime or 2 ago....I had a 5 spd in a Buick Skyhawk with the 3.8L V-6. Yes, I was in my early driving years. That car would eat throw-out bearing, diaphragm, clutch and need the flywheel resurfaced about every 30K +/- miles. There was a lot of stop-n-go traffic and several hills on my daily route.

I'm really surprised your clutch lasted for that many miles.

The flywheel should only need a resurface. Its prolly a good idea to renew all the seals that are accessible during the service. You got a bunch of miles and a little prevention at this point is prudent.
 
It's still lasting but on its last legs lol

And it's a Toyota it should last 4ever o_O
 
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Rock62 said:
Once upon a lifetime or 2 ago....I had a 5 spd in a Buick Skyhawk with the 3.8L V-6. Yes, I was in my early driving years. That car would eat throw-out bearing, diaphragm, clutch and need the flywheel resurfaced about every 30K +/- miles. There was a lot of stop-n-go traffic and several hills on my daily route.

I'm really surprised your clutch lasted for that many miles.

The flywheel should only need a resurface. Its prolly a good idea to renew all the seals that are accessible during the service. You got a bunch of miles and a little prevention at this point is prudent.
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Yeah, i newer owned a manual toyota truck that a clutch lasted 100k mile, reason for all automatics after having 2 manual trucks. You just can't beat a toyota auto for long life, as long as you replace the atf when it calls that meets your driving schedule. I had nearly 300k on my last auto and its still running fine locally with its new owner.
 
tacojoel said:
Yeah, i newer owned a manual toyota truck that a clutch lasted 100k mile, reason for all automatics after having 2 manual trucks. You just can't beat a toyota auto for long life, as long as you replace the atf when it calls that meets your driving schedule. I had nearly 300k on my last auto and its still running fine locally with its new owner.
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300k is amazing!
I would like to ride this clutch out to 1/3rd million miles if possible but IDK what happens to the TO bearing if it starts seizing up in the cold if it can damage other parts in the system or if I would just be stranded not able to get in or out of gear

It was probably all that towing that taxed your other clutches so soon or lots of stop go light to light
 
JayQQ97 said:
oh how here it is i found that flywheel part

1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L M/T 4WD EXTRA CAB SR-5 Clutch Flywheel. Engine - 1340562030 | Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS

Clutch Flywheel. Engine. 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L M/T 4WD EXTRA CAB SR-5. Genuine Toyota Part - 1340562030 (13405-62030). Ships from Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS
parts.lewistoyota.com
512$ with the nIce 31 per cent discount

View attachment 34304
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so i was told by a master Toyota repairman that it is best practice to replace the pricey flywheel, there could be pits and all that jazz
a novice asks Where and How would this pitting wear be and how to prevent it if possible
and there a very few resurfacers that you can trust to do the job right and limit the downTime to do so
#confused :(
 
tacojoel said:
Yeah, i newer owned a manual toyota truck that a clutch lasted 100k mile, reason for all automatics after having 2 manual trucks. You just can't beat a toyota auto for long life, as long as you replace the atf when it calls that meets your driving schedule. I had nearly 300k on my last auto and its still running fine locally with its new owner.
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i honestly just do NOT like how ATs shift... if i wish to speed up some i don't need the darned thing to downshift up on me, its annoying as all heck for it to hunt for a gear i have no control over
on mountainous declines that AT will force you to pump those brakes to keep from accelerating in neutral down the hill
i climbed down I-70 into Denver in 5th gear only having to tap the brakes once in awhile, an AT induces a belaboured effort in my experience to wheel down the mountain grade, Salt Lake City on I-80 was the worst!
 
@JayQQ97

Did you know the AT gear select lever can be placed in any gear. Then the AT will not shift up past that gear selection.

Descending a grade. Set the gear select in D, not OD, take your foot off the throttle. Let the engine and tranny work together.

FWIW, many semi-tractors are equipped with AT. I'm sure they are climbing/descending grades without control issues while hauling 20 tons of cargo. The tractor and trailer prolly add close to 10 ton more.
 
Well shoot! I always thought you take foot off gas pedal in an automatic and it goes into neutral
I feel so dumbed down
 
Oohwee
That bearing has an aggressive chatter in this morning cold 20 degree start
 
Are you expecting the bearing to get better with time?????

The bearing is telling you that it is time to replace it.

Soon, it will be -20F.......it should be very boisterous then.
 
i am educating myself with what all is involved with Timmy the Toolman uTube channel instructional
and have SO MANY questions after skimming through that :confused:

exhaust needs removed?
starter needs removed?
 
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