Rack end replacement... aka ITR inner tie rod

JayQQ97 said:
if its NOT more than 200$ i can budget that, but if its 700$ which it might be at the Yota shop with Yota parts then that blows the Taco budget right then and there since there is more than 5000$ (probably 7500$) of maintenance items that are on the docket currently
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Sounds like the repairs have exceeded the value of the truck.

It may be time to consider a different ride and retire that one.
 
Rock62 said:
If the rack is installed in the truck, then it should not rotate or move. If it does, you have a deeper problems.
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timmy the toolman would say otherwise! or you don't want to bind it up and destroy the whole rack
 
Rock62 said:
Sounds like the repairs have exceeded the value of the truck.

It may be time to consider a different ride and retire that one.
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what is the value of the truck, please do tell LOL
its an unknown variable...
 
Do what you think is best.

JayQQ97 said:
what is the value of the truck, please do tell LOL
its an unknown variable...
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KBB or NADA has the value. Sentimental or emotional value is no consequence. The condition of your truck would be in the Poor category due to all the needed work.....$5,000 to $7500 by your own words.
 
that definitely doesn't sound like too much!
i would think a better estimate of true value (not the hardWare store!) is what a credible insurance carrier would claim it as being a total loss?
 
JayQQ97 said:
that definitely doesn't sound like too much!
i would think a better estimate of true value (not the hardWare store!) is what a credible insurance carrier would claim it as being a total loss?
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They use KBB and NADA.

Just for grins, you could call your insurance carrier and ask them what value they would pay out for totalled condition of your truck.
 
yes i have asked agent on multiple occasion and they CANNOT give me any kind of answer, none whatsoever
they just say its valued ACV at the time of event
have U looked up the NADA value on this? I have and my head shakes
 
Rock62 said:
Ok....lets apply a little practicality.

The inner rod end threads onto the rack. You only need a tool to turn it and apply the proper torque. The "claw" washer is staked over the flats on the inner rod. The purpose is to prevent turning or loosening of the inner rod. A simple 10" pipe wrench can easily apply the 56 ftlb torque, which is not a high torque level.

Gen2, although not the same part, install in a similar manner.

Try not to overthink this.

Consider. If the outer tie rod end needs to be replaced, then the inner probably also needs to be replaced. Both ends have seen the same conditions and mileage during their time on the truck. Sure the inner rod end has a bit less movement, so the wear rate will be a bit slower. Also, if the truck is apart to replace the outer, then it cost less to replace the inner at the same time. Otherwise, you will need to do the work a second time for the inner rod ends paying the time and labor costs again. Labor rates at shops run over $100/hr.
Stepping over $$ to save pennies.

Remember, you will need a front-end alignment after this work is completed.
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have U read page SR-85 of the FSM i posted
the use of a spanner tool to hold rack steady whilst torquing the rack end proper
 
JayQQ97 said:
yes i have asked agent on multiple occasion and they CANNOT give me any kind of answer, none whatsoever
they just say its valued ACV at the time of event
have U looked up the NADA value on this? I have and my head shakes
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No. I have not looked up the KBB or NADA value of your truck. The value of your truck minus the repair estimates is the "value" of the truck to a potential buyer.

I know mine. Its roughly $2000 less than what I paid for it in 2/20.

FWIW, a simple strap wrench could be used to hold the rack if needed. Don't make things so complex. I know you wont be doing the work, so just take it to a shop.
 
This Moog part is made in Japan, so perhaps it is a strict quality

IMG_20230408_103536_644.jpg
 
Rock62 said:
No. I have not looked up the KBB or NADA value of your truck. The value of your truck minus the repair estimates is the "value" of the truck to a potential buyer.

I know mine. Its roughly $2000 less than what I paid for it in 2/20.

FWIW, a simple strap wrench could be used to hold the rack if needed. Don't make things so complex. I know you wont be doing the work, so just take it to a shop.
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To U perhaps
To others perhaps not, especially one that likes to tool around and is physically able to easily do so
Plus! you gotta like the aggressive black look :cool:. Plus a manual transmission
And the olde-school yota styling... they only made these for 2 and a half years before the switcheroo at the turn of the millennium
 
Rock62 said:
No. I have not looked up the KBB or NADA value of your truck. The value of your truck minus the repair estimates is the "value" of the truck to a potential buyer.

I know mine. Its roughly $2000 less than what I paid for it in 2/20.

FWIW, a simple strap wrench could be used to hold the rack if needed. Don't make things so complex. I know you wont be doing the work, so just take it to a shop.
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I would pay less than zero for a gen2 as it has zero value for I and I have zero interest in a big truck
So is that what yer truck is worth??
 
Not really, because its not for sale and it is in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition.

Also, you wouldn't be a potential buyer.

Nice try at baiting me.
 
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the mystery remains here...

about 3wks to get a whole new OEM rack install
started weeping in late May'23 at the rag
 
this new rack will include MANY new parts!

the rack with rack ends (aka ITR) and bellows already assembled new and not a reManD
a new jam nut to connect the new OTRs
new cotter key pins on the OTR to LBJ
new OEM rack bolts, nuts, washers... basically the works!
and one new U-bushing on the rack


and most likely some new PS fluid to top it all off
 
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