System?

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Call mr. Marv 1-831-383-0308
He's in Cali does custom taco boxes
Did truck Bed liner for the ported sub box and the amp rack also from Marv great guy! Ask me what my front stage is :)
 
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Fits like a glove. Marv was a cabinet maker who branched into custom enclosures and amp racks for many vehicles other than the tacoma. If you want a spec'd box or amp rack give him a ring.
 
I installed a 10"sub from kicker in my access can and set the amp under the seat (a 300watt kicker amp) and I have to say I'm very pleased. I didnt set the sub box solid because its my daily driver and its good to be able to move it from the center to either side. Also I set up a feature that allows me to turn it on or off as I please (a on/off switch button set up where there's space for button.) couldn't be happier
 
Yea a 10" kicker with 300 watts is a nice setup in the cab. Having the ability to use cabin gain and open air like that helps you keep the cost down as opposed to systems in sedans where you might be utilizing the trunk for the enclosure. Did you do a gain knob in place of one of the switch spots up front or just an on or off signal switch to the amp cj?
 
SilverStreakTaco said:
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Call mr. Marv 1-831-383-0308
He's in Cali does custom taco boxes
Did truck Bed liner for the ported sub box and the amp rack also from Marv great guy! Ask me what my front stage is :)
Click to expand...

Thinking of upgrading the stereo a little bit. Might go the cleansweep route to run amps so I can keep my factory head unit. 6.5/6.75 seperates in front, coaxials in back doors, and a sub. Use a 5 channel to push it. Nothing too elaborate. This guy mr marv have a website im in Rhode Island thats a log way from cali!
 
He's on diyma.com use search tool and tacomaworld.com he's legit an has tons of pics of his work on photo bucket there. you can achieve whatever you would like behind the rear seats as I did or in between if you have an access cab. IMHO I would do up to 7" woofers in the front with new mdf spacers to mount them. tweeters up front in stock locations. A solid 4 channel amp to power that run it active do the clean sweep route if you rather than change the deck out. Then throw in a sub with approx 200-400 watts powering it and you will be amazed. Rear fill with coaxial isn't necessary trust. I've had a system in every vehicle since I had a permit any other questions shoot me a pm. Good luck.
 
So are the stock speakers in the 07 worth a damn to wire the front two to the same channel and the backs to channel and one sub to each channel which would make four channels in all on a 1100 watt amp or should I get new speakers too?
 
Stock speakers are never worthy damn if your a critical listener as far as car audio goes. Never amplify stock speakers either! Just a precaution they are not meant to handle that kind of power. If your doing that amp and two sub combo you would need to at least get new front woofers and tweeters and amp them. Otherwise your subs will drown out the rest of the system. I suggest a pair of nice components up front 6.5" or 7" components with a mdf spacer. Give them 100-200 watts per side or channel and have the back speakers play off the head units power or just don't have rear fill at all. My .02. Good luck.
 
SilverStreakTaco said:
Yea a 10" kicker with 300 watts is a nice setup in the cab. Having the ability to use cabin gain and open air like that helps you keep the cost down as opposed to systems in sedans where you might be utilizing the trunk for the enclosure. Did you do a gain knob in place of one of the switch spots up front or just an on or off signal switch to the amp cj?
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Thanks, I did the switch in one of the spaces provided next to the wheel. I have to set it up correctly to keep it stable and make it look like it belongs there but overall perfect set up to put on and off and just a great sounding upgrade :)
 
Put the tens in and blew em already :(
But its cool I got more coming in the mail :)
 

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I want to buy a 5 channel amp, run all. 4 doors and a sub off one amp. Maybe a 1/2 farad cap to help w/ the powering. Gonna put MB Quart's in the doors, and a JL sub, w3 or w4 maybe. Shooting to install it over my xmas work shutdown. Time to go shoppin' again!!!
 
Before doing the capacitor I would suggest doing the big 3 upgrade. It consists of 4 gauge or bigger wire from pos batt post to alternator, 4 gauge from neg battery post to chassis, and 4 gauge or bigger neg batt post to engine block. Beefs up all your ****ty stock electrical which is probably 12 gauge. Just google the big 3 upgrade if you need step by step instructions.
 
SilverStreakTaco said:
Before doing the capacitor I would suggest doing the big 3 upgrade. It consists of 4 gauge or bigger wire from pos batt post to alternator, 4 gauge from neg battery post to chassis, and 4 gauge or bigger neg batt post to engine block. Beefs up all your ****ty stock electrical which is probably 12 gauge. Just google the big 3 upgrade if you need step by step instructions.
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I couldnt agree more. I plan on that as well as an optima battery. Had a yellow top in my old 240, red top in my cherokee. And the cap... Since the extra power will prevent the ol' bass hit headlight blink.
 
Sickness I ran a cap in an old civic. Optimal are nice bought a yellow top for the tacoma and never even put it in. Only have about 650 watts running total. My voltmeter has never dropped below 13.2. Do you know what amperage alternators are in the 05+ tacos I have a 2010 and the electrical system is nice.
 
I did seperate amps last time i put bump in my car. Im trying to stay space and budget concious this time. Price was no object last time. Maybe a 4ch and a monoblock if i can find stuff i like. Sometime between now and the holidays I'll have it figured/thought out.

In the meantime...my TRD exhaust is coming in wed and getting slapped on sunday. Gonna wait til this heat/humidity wave passes.
 
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