Oil change

should i get my 3.4 engine deCarb'd?

one dealer has recommended that on a few occasions over the past 4 years

too bad that THEY did not show me a pic of what it all looked like with the Valve Covers off then
 
JayQQ97 said:
should i get my 3.4 engine deCarb'd?

one dealer has recommended that on a few occasions over the past 4 years

too bad that THEY did not show me a pic of what it all looked like with the Valve Covers off then
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Never heard of such a service. Nor can I fathom the need for such a service.

Seems like the "decarb" service is specifically performed to lighten the wallet load.

While you are having the "decarb" performed be sure to get the N2 fill for the tires.
 
Rock62 said:
Never heard of such a service. Nor can I fathom the need for such a service.

Seems like the "decarb" service is specifically performed to lighten the wallet load.

While you are having the "decarb" performed be sure to get the N2 fill for the tires.
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Helium is better. Your tires will feel enlightened.
 
Rock62 said:
Helium is better. Your tires will feel enlightened.
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Luv the pun.........:D:D

Only problem is the He molecules are small enough to pass through the rubber. Its the reason why He balloons go flat after a few hours.
 
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Regarding that full synthetic 5w30 oil... I used Castrol brand fwiw

For only 3k miles since changed with new filter it appears quite coloured
Not whut I was expecting with first time use of full synthetic instead of the blend

I was thinking it would be much lighter after just 3k miles

How is this even supposed to last 10k? Let alone 7500?
 
tacojoel said:
Knowing what experience I've had with mobil 1, i'm not concerned one bit doing manufactured recommended 10k oil changes. Even other brand synthetics are fine to use. Imo, if the engine becomes damaged, it's not the fault of the oil changes. Imo, too many think they have a high performance vehicle, o r expect one, and run excessive high rpm, which in itself is not good.
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How high RPM do you consider to be excessive?
 
Another possibility.

If you've been using dino for mulitudes of miles, then switch to full syn....... The full syn will tend to clean what the dino couldn't. During the switch, you may need to short stroke the change interval to say 1500-2000 miles. Give several changes for the full syn to flush out the swarf the dino couldn't. Don't forget the oil filter at each change.
 
I haven't heard that with motor oils, but if you never change your atf in your vehicle, then do a replacement at that stage, it could loosen up varnish deposit's inside causing all sorts of problems.
 
IDK :confused:
If it gets any darker I may have to drain and fill new between 5k and 7k or stop somewhere along the ways

Mind you this was not the dark from sitting overnight cold

This was hot oil checked after a 100+ run in the sweltering heat
 
All 3rd gens take OW20, I know this because it says so on the engine thingy. So just like the owners manuel says, I get an oil change every 10,000 miles from the dealership for $54. That's 6.2 quarts of oil and a new filter. I am to freaking old to get up under BigBlue on that doo-hicky creeper with wheels and remove and replace the engine skid plate just to get to the plug. Never had an issue with this Taco or my previous two others.
 
54$ is a fine deal for full synthetic

Some places are starting to breach 100$ for that
 
TexasBigBlue said:
All 3rd gens take OW20, I know this because it says so on the engine thingy. So just like the owners manuel says, I get an oil change every 10,000 miles from the dealership for $54. That's 6.2 quarts of oil and a new filter. I am to freaking old to get up under BigBlue on that doo-hicky creeper with wheels and remove and replace the engine skid plate just to get to the plug. Never had an issue with this Taco or my previous two others.
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I wonder what quality oil they're putting in your truck for that price. It cost me more than that just for the 0w20 mobil1 extended I bought at Wally World. Dealer here wants $160 for an oil change on my gen3 v6 using the same oil.
 
The dealer is probably buying oil in bulk. They also may be in a network with multiple dealers all buying off the same contract from the same distributor.
 
The only synthetic oil they're buying in bulk is cheaply produced oil without the same additive packages the more name brands sell. I have a friend that runs an auto repair shop that buys Amalie synthetic motor oils in bulk, but still claims if he doesn't charge at least $90 for a 5 qt oil change he's losing money.
 
Just a supporter of those that follow manufacturers recommendations for oil changes. My 2016 V6 developed a low oil pressure issue. After replacing an oil sending unit I got the attention of the warranty department at corporate. The dealer sent my oil out for testing and wanted to know my driving habits as well as my entire maintenance routine/schedule. I drive 70 miles a day (Mainly expressway to and from work). I purchase my motor oil from Costco (Kirkland brand) and Toyota filters from a local Toyota dealer. I change my oil every 10,000 miles (as recommended by Toyota). Results from the lab reported that my engine showed no signs of contamination or excessive wear. The dealer went on to drop my oil pan and inspect further. I got a peek at my oil pan and crank assembly, it all looked very clean. After an inspection of the bottom of the engine, off came the valve covers and a bore scope down every cylinder. (not sure what that had to do with low oil pressure but......) Again, everything came back with a clean bill of health. Finally their senior tech put a gauge in the sending unit oil port and found my oil pressure to be within normal range. Then put a meter on the sending unit only to find that it was functioning properly as well. My problem ended up being self inflicted at the connector at the sending unit. The final report from the warranty department was that my engine was in excellent condition with minimal signs of wear. I was going to start changing my oil at 5,000 miles now that I have crossed the 100,000 mile mark but it really seems unnecessary. At 117,000 miles my truck runs like new and is mechanically sound internally. Unless you are operating in extreme conditions or just beating the hell out of your vehicle, (in my experience) 10,000 miles is an effective interval for oil service.
 
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