front brakes + rotors on gen2...


MW surVivor ... clutched. 348k on the 0D0
where to start!?

79700 miles on the rig, mostly city stop-n-go driving
original rotors still
brake pads changed once already at 55,555 at the Yota dealer brake special 27 months ago
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the cause for concern is a slight 'shimmy' vibe in the steering wheel when applying light braking

i was pointed to the rotors being worn or warped that is the cause for this issue
So, just replace the pads, and rotors, it's easy peasy, unless the caliper mounting bolts have seized, and rotors have rusted/bonded themselves to the hubs. Gotta check the calipers themselves to...when they get old the seals can leak, or pistons freeze up. At any rate, its good to fix any brake issues before they get worse where a really good air impact tool is needed to remove the caliper mounting bolts, using a bunch of pb blaster, and a 4lb sledge hammer to beat off the old rotors for hrs. like I had. Trust me, you need to avoid that.:mad:
i have no clue how to measure the pads to see how they are doing after almost 25k miles.. i do not have a tool to measure that!
the original factory pads made it 55k miles and i cannot find in the carFax history deets if they were changed before 55k miles
and then there is the ABS stuff i have absolut no clue about

does the ABS stuffs need servicing and/or maintenance? ... definitely do not wish to screw that up at all

my '97 has NONE of this nanny abs stuff, if you wish to call it that lmao
i have no clue how to measure the pads to see how they are doing after almost 25k miles.. i do not have a tool to measure that!
the original factory pads made it 55k miles and i cannot find in the carFax history deets if they were changed before 55k miles
Pads have metal wear strips that will contact the rotors making a scraping noise when the pads get to their wear limit. After installing new pads don't forget to bed them, your truck will thankyou.
If you haven't abs, don't worry about it. Abs on Toyotas are very reliable anyways. My tundra had abs...the abs never needed servicing.
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do the brake technicians use some sort of dial indicator to measure the remaining mm of pad usage?
Most have a brake pad gauge to measure the pad thickness remaining.
Pads are relativity cheap. When you rotate your tires it's easy enough to see what kind of pad life you have left. Usually when they look less than an 1/16'' I just replace them.
If you notice the pad wearing unevenly, you likely have a caliper issue that need addressing.
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DT takes care of the rotating task, included in price of them badass falken wildPeaks that have 26k miles on them as of now
and they are a bit past due for a rotation!
Idk, I'm not the tekton salesman. I just haul out my biggest baddest hammer from my tool's gotta be at least a 4 lb one, and beat the living daylights out of those rotors after they been pb blasted well through the lug/stud holes.
EZ task. Just plan on replacing the rotors. Pads are easy too. If you have a vernier caliper, just measure the "depth" of the pad to the backing plate. Minimum is 1 mm or 0.040 inch.

No special tools are required. Basic wrenches, needle nose, BFH (Big FN Hammer).

Remove wheel, place a lug nut onto a stud to hold the rotor in place while you remove the caliper. 2 bolts on the caliper. I think 17,18 or 19 mm socket. Use a piece of high tech string to hang the caliper from the coil spring while you work on removing the rotor. Back off the lug nut a few turns, use the BFH to influence the stuck rotor. There are a couple of jack screw holes in the rotor to help removal. Sorry, don't know the thread size. Beat, heat, penetrant,'ll come off. Don't be afraid to be aggressive. On install, a bit of anti-sieze on the hub and rotor contact points is helpful in the future. Put the lug nut on to hold the new rotor in place. Use brake clean on both sides of the rotor, then do not touch the pad surfaces.

There are 2 guide pins on the caliper held in position with small hair pin clips. Remove the clips and the pins. The old pads will slide out of the caliper. Compress the brake pistons (4) into the caliper. Mind the brake fluid reservoir up top to avoid over flow. If the pistons won't compress, then you have a problem that may require a new caliper assembly. Assembly is the reverse.

Numerous vids on Utube and I'm sure your Toyota repair guru has a vid.

Easy work, allow roughly 90 minutes per wheel.

Suggest NAPA as a source for parts.

Good Luck
Better count on at least much of the day if finding those rotors seized to the hubs. Hopefully toyota now has threaded bolt holes like the rear drums for the rotors to pop them loose, but I wouldn't count on 2001 tundra didn't.:(
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Will the rotor cut me off better in hotter summerlike weather or cold brisk freezing winter weather
Or does it even matter!?
Not enough temperature swing to matter when it comes to metal expansion. Besides, all the parts involved are ferrous based, ie steel and cast iron.

The sooner you quit yaking about the task, the sooner the task is done.
Did my fronts at 49k put on cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from Powerstop. sucker stops at least 50% better !!! much nice hauling a boat too! they came off easy just be sure to clean any rust build up on the calipers where the pads slide in and i put a little anti seize the keep them moving.