front brakes + rotors on gen2...

tacojoel said:
Thats a pretty far stretch of bs...more likely if the rotors were never replaced, or turned when past their service limits. You can warp new rotors just from riding your brakes too long down steep hills. It's one reason drilled, and slotted rotors have a big advantage getting rid of that excessive heat solid rotors can't.
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this taco truck has less than 80k
the rotors on my '97 were first replaced at 240k and were commented by the parts changer as still looking 0K

so i don't know about this Gen2 rotors?
perhaps the shimmy in the wheel is something else altogether
 
tacojoel said:
Not always. If the master cylinder rubber float is working properly, and your rear shoes are adjusting properly, you can still grind metal to metal without a change in pedal height, or firmness. Only if air gets into the brake system, the pedal firmness will change.
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pedal firmness will ALSO change if your front wheel bearing(s) is/are roasted and wobbly AF inside the knuckle shaking the front cv axle as was the case on my '97 recently a few months ago...
 
tacojoel said:
Thats a pretty far stretch of bs...more likely if the rotors were never replaced, or turned when past their service limits. You can warp new rotors just from riding your brakes too long down steep hills. It's one reason drilled, and slotted rotors have a big advantage getting rid of that excessive heat solid rotors can't.
Click to expand...

why does Toyota not make supply slotted rotors? at least i did not see that option anywhere upon ordering these new ones
 
JayQQ97 said:
pedal firmness will ALSO change if your front wheel bearing(s) is/are roasted and wobbly AF inside the knuckle shaking the front cv axle as was the case on my '97 recently a few months ago...
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To the average driver, they're not going to experience that. 99% of owners would get those parts replace before that ever became an issue.
 
JayQQ97 said:
why does Toyota not make supply slotted rotors? at least i did not see that option anywhere upon ordering these new ones
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A lot of owners buy these trucks for muddy off-road use where solid rotors are the ticket....plus solid rotors just cost less. Its the same reason other manufactures do the same.
 
tacojoel said:
To the average driver, they're not going to experience that. 99% of owners would get those parts replace before that ever became an issue.
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i noticed no real driveability issues that were not anything out of the ordinary at the time
thought it was just something funky with the brakes? bad caliper? ruptured leaking hose, etc
brakeshop said it was the rear drums and turned them but had no real effect
so i basically knew nothing about what was going on with the bearing being roasted out until the dealershop got their hands on it changing the front brake pads and then alerted me to the serious issue
 
JayQQ97 said:
I bet it's that ABS that warped them at such low mileage!
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Not very likely.

The sensors and encoders are inside the wheel hub, not the brake rotor. This end of the ABS system sends a signal to the brake control computer to monitor wheel speed. If it senses a wheel rotating slower than the others (ie skid), the system will begin to pulse the brake fluid. Then the brake pads pulse against the rotors.

Recall long time ago, before ABS, the driver had to quickly pump the brakes. The ABS "pumps" the brakes much sooner and quicker than a human.

The cause of warped rotors is heat with uneven cooling. Typically, this comes from 1 foot on the brake pedal and 1 foot on the accelerator pedal or riding the brakes.

It isn't the ABS causing rotor warp. Its either the driver or a mechanic has turned the rotors past their usable thickness limit.
 
i checked into the engine compartment yesterday and observed the level in the brake-fluid reservoir
it was halfway between the min and max
this would indicate that the pads are soon in need of replacements?

should i go get the pads professionally measured and consulted on this?
one local yota dealer has a no-charge brake checkUp eval
 
Unless you're a professional brake mech, that does nothing but brake jobs all day, and has to meet a daily quota of jobs done, you don't need that stuff. Just get a large flat screwdriver, or tire tube iron. My god, a simple brake pad change, and I'm wasting time looking at this stuff.
 
i have not ever done a 'simple' brake job in my entire life :eek:

do i recall attempting to do some rear drum brakes on the '78 Celica perhaps 30 years ago now and ran into complicated issues then and gave up onit :confused:
 
YouTube is your friend .:) front pad change is pretty easy pull both front wheels but do one side at a time so you can look at other side if u have any dout on how it goes back together and take pictures first . just get a good wire coat hanger to hang the caliper from the spring if u change rotors
 
every video i have watched seem to always use a different tool for the piston task

i do have a caliper hangar!
 
This is not hard, you have a human brain last I knew, you seem to know everything about todays music, and tv industry. I have faith you can figure this brake matter out with what you likely have already sitting around. Heck everyone has some sort of large screwdriver that can be used to leverage, and compress those pistons back.
 
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