needing a new MT clutch procedure

JayQQ97 said:
I recall mentioning a time ago how difficult it has been to find a yota specialist shop that will resurface flywheel if it's still good and can be done

Everybody wants to just put a new one in and charge the extra 400$ or so to 700$+. For just that part
400$ is for a non OEM part so likely jank
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The resurface vs replacement is tenured by several factors.

How severe is the damage? The damage could be severe enough that a resurface is not effective. There may not be a shop in the area capable of resurfacing the flywheel. The cost of the resurface could be more than a replacement.

The flywheel may be below the minimum thickness. Then resurface is not possible.

Another factor to consider is the downtime of the truck. Pull the flywheel, send off to resurface, pull truck out of the bay (bay needs to service the next vehicle or the cash flow stops for that bay), 1-2 days for resurface, receive flywheel, pull truck back into the bay, complete the install. Much more simple and cost effective for the shop to replace the flywheel.

I know its hard to believe, but not every shop is out to get YOU.

Anyhow, a resurface is likely a moot point at this time based on your description of the clutch operation. You're probably needing to replace everything between the engine and the transmission.

Good Luck when you go to the shop.
 
Rock62 said:
The resurface vs replacement is tenured by several factors.

How severe is the damage? The damage could be severe enough that a resurface is not effective. There may not be a shop in the area capable of resurfacing the flywheel. The cost of the resurface could be more than a replacement.

The flywheel may be below the minimum thickness. Then resurface is not possible.

Another factor to consider is the downtime of the truck. Pull the flywheel, send off to resurface, pull truck out of the bay (bay needs to service the next vehicle or the cash flow stops for that bay), 1-2 days for resurface, receive flywheel, pull truck back into the bay, complete the install. Much more simple and cost effective for the shop to replace the flywheel.

I know its hard to believe, but not every shop is out to get YOU.

Anyhow, a resurface is likely a moot point at this time based on your description of the clutch operation. You're probably needing to replace everything between the engine and the transmission.

Good Luck when you go to the shop.
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Geez, you're scaring the poor guy. As far as resurfacing flywheels, I've never seen one bad enough for a first time cut to be junked. It's usually if its been cut one time already there isn't enough material left to be in spec. Unless you're in a very backwoods town, there's always a machinist around that can do these jobs. I don't know if toyota has throwaway flywheels now, but back in the day when I did clutch replacements on my toyota 4wd pickups, I was aways able to get the flywheel cut. You never want to start out with a flywheel that has a chattered, burnt surface, and just replace the clutch.
 
Is it the flywheel then that making the chatter usually under 2k rpms and acceleration uppa incline
 
tacojoel said:
Geez, you're scaring the poor guy. As far as resurfacing flywheels, I've never seen one bad enough for a first time cut to be junked. It's usually if its been cut one time already there isn't enough material left to be in spec. Unless you're in a very backwoods town, there's always a machinist around that can do these jobs. I don't know if toyota has throwaway flywheels now, but back in the day when I did clutch replacements on my toyota 4wd pickups, I was aways able to get the flywheel cut. You never want to start out with a flywheel that has a chattered, burnt surface, and just replace the clutch.
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@tacojoel. I agree with you to a point. The unfortunate thing is a heavy, thick flywheel is becoming a past thing. This is a prime target for weight reduction to help shave pounds off the vehicle weight leading to better fuel efficiency.

I know engineers when tasked with a weight reduction program on a vehicle. They will squeeze every part for every ounce or fraction of an ounce. Hence the commonality of the aluminum block engine with iron cylinder liners......weight reduction. Aluminum bumpers, wheels, hoods, pans, housings........all for weight reduction to help meet EPA mandates.

I'm suspecting his flywheel is in extremely poor condition. Too many miles, too many symptoms, chattered, burnt, possible surface cracks, deep scoring..........

I'm having trouble with an optimistic view of his truck's condition. He had indications of clutch slip before he trekked across country.

I hope for his sanity the truck is not heavily damaged.
 
and yet it does NOT slip the normal ways you would think
no high revs going nowhere in upper gears going up incline
but something is awry definitely

especially when trying to fickle it in gently to 3rd gear after long hot dayrun
 
JayQQ97 said:
and yet it does NOT slip the normal ways you would think
no high revs going nowhere in upper gears going up incline
but something is awry definitely

especially when trying to fickle it in gently to 3rd gear after long hot dayrun
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I'm curious. What would you consider as "slip the normal ways"?
 
4th or 5th gear climbing hill and the rpms go up whilst vehicle slows down
happened on that '78 Celica had 30+ years ago and got it replaced sub 100k miles iirc, the last time i had any clutch wear problems bot it used from some lady that musta rode that pedal but hard
 
JayQQ97 said:
4th or 5th gear climbing hill and the rpms go up whilst vehicle slows down
happened on that '78 Celica had 30+ years ago and got it replaced sub 100k miles iirc, the last time i had any clutch wear problems bot it used from some lady that musta rode that pedal but hard
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Invest in some good hiking shoes, the end is near.
 
can i suppose the carrier bearing is an ezpz replacement during clutch job with zero added expense other than part cost

how does one even test if the carrier bearing on the shaft is the culprit of some of the oddity noise
 
JayQQ97 said:
can i suppose the carrier bearing is an ezpz replacement during clutch job with zero added expense other than part cost

how does one even test if the carrier bearing on the shaft is the culprit of some of the oddity noise
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Are you planning to do the work yourself?

If not, then talk to your mechanic about how to diagnose and replacement procedure and cost.

FWIW, what you describe is only one way a clutch will indicate slip. You have had numerous indicators of clutch slip over the last few months. Chatter, difficult to engage gears, sluggish acceleration with increased engine speeds, noises from the clutch area (throw out bearing)........these are just a few that I can recall at the moment.
 
When a clutch goes tapioca, you'll know it just by the smell....like you rode the brakes to long down a mountain pulling a heavy trailer without a brake controller..
 
Does the power steering rack need to be moved to get at the clutch and tranny
 
It looks like the bell housing sits right over the top of the rack

I will need to consult the FSM in the clutch removal section and see if it instructs to remove the rack
 
I replaced clutches on older toyota 4x4 pickups...never had an issue removing the bell housing. I don't think they had steering racks though.
 
JayQQ97 said:
It looks like the bell housing sits right over the top of the rack

I will need to consult the FSM in the clutch removal section and see if it instructs to remove the rack
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The "rack" is towards the front of the engine. Typically inline with the front wheels, or nearly so.

The bell housing is at the rear of the engine. Its between the engine and transmission.
 
the rack on Gen1 is near the transmission mount so that would be the rear? of the engine

are the Gen2 different?
 
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