a new chapter begins... the road to 400k

LBJ with proper cotter key pin at spec
This was the loose one by more than 1 inch turn

IMG_20231024_143409_078.jpg
 
Found some sketchy black oily drip by the new axle
Not quite sure where it come from or if it's undercoating spray
Could it be when the axle shoved into front diff the seal was bugged up :confused:
 
Truck is down for 2 more days to await air proper parts from yota dealer
 
JayQQ97 said:
Found some sketchy black oily drip by the new axle
Not quite sure where it come from or if it's undercoating spray
Could it be when the axle shoved into front diff the seal was bugged up :confused:
Click to expand...

I recall now reading somewhere that to change front axles you must drain the diff or it will leak out upon removal
Is so??
 
When I did the wheel bearing on my 93 4wd pickup, I only had a few dribbles. I just stuck some paper towels in there.
 
So I betcha perhaps the seals got roached :confused:
Down day tomorrow pending raon raim rain
I will attempt to get at front diff check fill, it's in a challenging spot
Then do drain fill if I can reach it and hex plugs not over torque d

Could be black engine oil mixture but I could not see any weep directly abouve the area
It's all over the newish napa boots on spots
 
JayQQ97 said:
So I betcha perhaps the seals got roached :confused:
Down day tomorrow pending raon raim rain
I will attempt to get at front diff check fill, it's in a challenging spot
Then do drain fill if I can reach it and hex plugs not over torque d

Could be black engine oil mixture but I could not see any weep directly abouve the area
It's all over the newish napa boots on spots
Click to expand...
If you do the front diff on your own. Allow me to offer a tip.

Be sure you can remove the top (fill) plug, then attempt the drain plug. You may need to have a spare drain plug and gasket on hand. A 3 lb hammer and a cold chisel could be helpful removing the drain plug.
 
First I must be able to remove that middle skid plate splash shield to access fill plug where them boots are just turning inna roachd nut
 
Tell me do you think the yota dealer removed these oddball cotter key pins n the driver side with new bearing and hub to check axle torque to spec
And THEN put them back in like this so neat and tidy not being correct oem cotter key just some junk off the shelf
 
To replace the axle hub (wheel bearing assy) the CV axle nut must be removed. Therefore, it must be torqued (173 ft lb) and cotter pin installed when reassembled.

I could only speculate what the mechanic did.

FWIW, all cotter pins are soft steel. They are sized by diameter and length. In a pinch, a 6d brad nail will work. Cotter pins are not high stressed components. The cotter pins prevent the castle nut from turning due to vibrations. Unless the castle nut receives enough torque to double shear the cotter pin, the castle nut will stay in place.
 
Make sure you use the correct size hex socket when removing that front differential plug...and use a 1/2 ratchet tool, or breaker bar for it. They can be in there pretty snug...you don't want to strip the plug.
 
tacojoel said:
Make sure you use the correct size hex socket when removing that front differential plug...and use a 1/2 ratchet tool, or breaker bar for it. They can be in there pretty snug...you don't want to strip the plug.
Click to expand...

yeah, when i had it serviced out in 2o19 the yota shop found that the dealer that had always serviced it the last 22 years had stripped the plug so bad that he had to air chisel it out and put a new plug in

97 stripped front diff plug notch out.jpg

97 stripped front diff plug.jpg
 
the issue is still going to be getting that middle splash guard out of the way where the 2 bolts and nuts spin, diff fill sits right on top of it
i need to get that fixed somehow someway somewhere
 
wotn tarnation is this
i do not know whut to think here
ordered the correct cotter key pin (one for the other side as well) from the dealer PLUS 1 axle grease nut to see what is what
because this axle grease nut does not look original and not tall enough, but the originals were discarded into the dump
this is the driver side of which I have had 3 roasted wheel bearings and now finally have a new hub on there

axle nut cotter keys on driver side wotN tarnation.jpg
 
JayQQ97 said:
the issue is still going to be getting that middle splash guard out of the way where the 2 bolts and nuts spin, diff fill sits right on top of it
i need to get that fixed somehow someway somewhere
Click to expand...

i could have those backwards... and mixed up
the diff drain maybe the one covered by the middle splash shield
 
JayQQ97 said:
wotn tarnation is this
i do not know whut to think here
ordered the correct cotter key pin (one for the other side as well) from the dealer PLUS 1 axle grease nut to see what is what
because this axle grease nut does not look original and not tall enough, but the originals were discarded into the dump
this is the driver side of which I have had 3 roasted wheel bearings and now finally have a new hub on there

View attachment 41262
Click to expand...
Was just going to say it appears someone used whatever they had, and jammed a double cotter pin in there. Very ingenie-ass.
 
tacojoel said:
Was just going to say it appears someone used whatever they had, and jammed a double cotter pin in there. Very ingenie-ass.
Click to expand...

one issue is i found the opposite axle not at all like that, just some extra long cotter key that did not fit proper that allowed the grease crowned cap to dangle and wiggle, not secure at all
i wonder if that grease nut with the crown is not the original one? so I ordered a new one from the dealer at a cost of almost 5$... just to match it all up and see if one OEM cotter key will slip through and make it secure.
or it could be that Napa axle is not exactly as OEM standard is with that cotter key hole in the proper spot for the grease nut to align kosher... then will have a real issue then :confused:
 
and whut the hail is that blackish substance all over that hub outer ring??
i do not recall the brand-new in box OEM hub i supplied for the bearing to have any black stuff there, but I will check the other new hub i bot then from Miami (which is on backorder) and see if my mind playing tricks on me or whatever
 
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