Clunking jerky feeling whilst shifting from P to R to D

The reason you do not offer a reason or diagnosis is because it can lead them to fix what YOU think is wrong. Most owners do not have enough knowledge or have the diagnostic tools to find and identify the problem. In other words, what you think may or may not be correct.

Just tell the mechanic the symptoms and the condition when the symptom happens.

Now, when you get the diagnosis its time to ask questions to understand and determine if things make sense. Have the mechanic explain HOW they determined the problem and details of the repair. If this discussion leaves you uncomfortable, then get a second opinion. A second opinion is always a good idea on invasive work.

These simple steps will help you to understand and evaluate the honesty and skill of the mechanic. These simple steps will also help to protect you and your wallet.

Example: YOU tell the mechanic that the cause of a misfire problem is the Engine Control Module. Mechanic installs a new module and charges you accordingly. A couple days later, the misfire returns. You're angry with the 1st mechanic and seek another. While dropping off the truck you relate your experience with the 1st mechanic. The 2nd mechanic diagnosis the problem as a bad spark plug. He replaces the plug and the misfire is gone. In the end, you've paid for unnecessary work and cost yourself big $$$ for a simple fix.

In my experience, mechanics don't want unhappy customers and don't want to spend time chasing vapor. Sure, they are in business to make $$.
Sure, some are not clean mechanics. Some customers act like they know all when they don't. Some customers do know. How does the mechanic determine who knows manure from shoe polish.

Trust me. Just relate the symptoms and conditions when the symptom happens. Let the expert do their work. Once the repair estimate is in hand, then ask questions to understand. Trust but Verify.
 
curious to what is the reasoning behind DO NOT offer a possible cause or solution
... i do have a habit of offering my 'novice' thoughts of what i think is going on in these particular occasions. perhaps I try to guide them in the right direction?

... with that awful rattle i had 2 years ago in my '97 i directed them to the front of the running engine banging in the cold but the master swore it was still that clutch throwout bearing making the racket that persisted for another 3 to 4 months after that before it broke into the moving fan blade

So, in this situation, the "master" was correct. Although, you continued to ride for another 3 to 4 months. Then it failed causing additional damage and repair costs.
 
It was already failing! LOL... Just had no idea what it was then
once it failed almost catastrophicly and the new most pricey part (over 600$) was replaced that banging went away completely in all seasons!
I had the truck in there often for inspections and have no clue if they stuck their hand up in there with the engine off of course to check for any wiggle waggle on that hunk of massive metal
It was either banging on the sides of the crank or that bolt
 
Oh dear oh my more issues popping up now
Make new topic or continue in this one?
 
how would i even go about determining if this sometimes intermittent clunking is the Transmission Mount failing?

diagnostics cost good coin... more than 125$ to search for a problem and if NO problem found then still 125$ is POOF


"If your Toyota Tacoma lurches or clunks as you're shifting from reverse to drive or vise versa, you may have a broken transmission mount."
 
I am a Gen2 owner.

Things to consider.
At cold start the engine is on fast idle at a higher engine speed. This will produce more abrupt transmission response.
At cold start the transmission is stone cold and the ATF is more resistant to flow. This will produce a firm gear change.

If the truck is over or nearing 100 kmiles, it probably needs a fluid and filter change for the Automatic Transmission. Especially, if any regular towing in the past.

There is a significant difference between a drain & fill vs a fluid & filter change.

If this service was a DIY performed, the fill level may be off. There is a very specific procedure to verify the proper fill level in the Gen2 AT.

<edit>
I know my truck had shifting that was a bit wonky at 109,xxx miles. No service records of this work being done. When I did the fluid & filter change the shifting was very smooth. In fact, I had to watch the tach to notice the shift points. The shift was smoooooth, like 12 yo Scotch.
<endedit>

your rig does NOT have the transmission level dipstick in the engine bay?
this '11 does.
 
your rig does NOT have the transmission level dipstick in the engine bay?
this '11 does.

Correct. There is a very specific procedure to follow to check for proper AT fluid fill on my '06 AT.

You may want to review the procedure for checking the AT fluid level. Perhaps you are executing the procedure incorrectly.
 
Correct. There is a very specific procedure to follow to check for proper AT fluid fill on my '06 AT.

You may want to review the procedure for checking the AT fluid level. Perhaps you are executing the procedure incorrectly.
I pulled the dipstick on the tranny check at the gas pump recently with engine running in park with everything warmed up.

The level was well above the full hash mark
But I don't know how an overfilled AT might cause an ish.!?
 
Double check the procedure.

Some need the transmission in gear. So, someone needs to be standing on the brake while the dipstick is pulled.
 
I can't recall all the details for the procedure to check fluid level on my '06 AT, but its similar to the following...

Jump wire between two pins in the OBD port
Start the truck
Dashboard lights up like a pinball machine
Make a series of shifts within a specific time frame.
A light will indicate the system is active with a series of flashes
Wait while the AT warms up.
The AT Temp light will illuminate solid when proper temperature is reached.
Leave truck idling
Crawl under truck,
Remove the check level plug, NOT the drain plug
A light drizzle should run out.
Install check plug
Shut down.

If you screw it up, then you wait until the truck cools down and try again. My first time checking fluid level I was successful on the 3rd attempt.
 
For the non-dipstick AT

Do I need a mechanic to check my transmission fluid?
Your car must be level when the fluid is checked and we therefore recommend having a mechanic with a hydraulic lift or underground bay check your transmission fluid.
 
For the dipstick model
I did not first shift through all gears but I will now
that is all that i found that tells how to check the level proper
 
Last edited:
i should probably try to get a photo of the fluid level on the dipstick for you to evaluate and proceed

what mileage/year is a transmission filter to be replaced on Tacoma? or is it a lifetime filter?

i sorta recently (the past summer ago) replaced the AT filter on the Corolla for first time at 137k miles and 24yrs of service
 
i still have no clue as to what might be causing this random jerky clunk... it does NOT seem to do it all the time everytime just sometimes

tried some steps such as setting the parking brake and then put into gear... that 'seems' to help some
tried letting it warm up a bit longer than the usual before hitting the road... sometimes that helps and other times it does not help
 
i still have no clue as to what might be causing this random jerky clunk... it does NOT seem to do it all the time everytime just sometimes

tried some steps such as setting the parking brake and then put into gear... that 'seems' to help some
tried letting it warm up a bit longer than the usual before hitting the road... sometimes that helps and other times it does not help
Are you parking on level ground? Putting the transmission in park on any grade with load the parking pawl in the tranny. When you remove park, and go to reverse or drive it's going to jerk....otherwise could be bad u-joints.
 
sometimes yes
sometimes no
on that level ground

bad Ujoints at less than 70k miles ???
 
Last edited:
sometimes yes
sometimes no
on that level ground

bad Ujoints at less than 70k miles ???
Sure, anything is possible. Best to check them for any play or looseness.

Damage could happen during install or faulty manufacturing or shaft alignment......

Another possible source for your intermittent clunk could be a broken motor mount or transmission mount.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top