Clunking jerky feeling whilst shifting from P to R to D


there are the torque specs the flange yokes need to be checked to see IF this is causing the noticeable intermittent clunking and rattling this truck has been experiencing since i got involved with it all

they are supposed to be checked every 5k miles per the Yota service sheet
and i assume they have not been checked in awhile IF EVER in 12yrs/70k miles

now i have to figure if two hands are need to hold the nut on oneside and check torque on the opposite bolt
 
I assume you are asking how I do this task.

I use an extension in the middle U-joint yoke to jam (prevent) the prop shaft from turning. No hands needed.

I use a torque wrench with a short extension and the socket. At worst, I'll use a universal joint on the extension to allow a little extra flex.

When setting the torque, I will keep the extension/universal as straight as practical (aligned with the bolt). Using one hand to support the proper alignment, the other hand applies the torque.

I use 3/8" drive sockets and extensions. The 1/2" drive torque wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to mate with the 3/8" drive extensions and such.

I forget the exact torque level, but it isn't exceptionally high.


Good luck.
 
If it's in P on the automatic that prop is NOT going to turn, it just clunks side to side putting a hand onit to try rotating it
 
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Beginning at the torque wrench......
1/2" drive torque wrench + 1/2" to 3/8" adapter + 3/8" extension + 3/8" universal joint (if needed) + 3/8" drive socket.

If the prop shaft "clunks" during rotation by hand when in Park, then I suspect you have a U-joint needing replacement or a loose flange. You may need to remove the prop shaft, take it to a driveshaft shop for inspection and corrective work.

Many times having the correct tool makes a job easy. Just about any Big Box store has a selection of decent mechanic tools, such as Kobalt, Husky, MasterForce..........numerous brands. Even Harbor Freight or Northern Tools.
 
My gen1 tundra had a bit more than normal pinion to ring gear play when it got to that high mileage. Just the nature of the beast....parts wear out.
 
My gen1 tundra had a bit more than normal pinion to ring gear play when it got to that high mileage. Just the nature of the beast....parts wear out.
Agreed, that sounds like normal wear on high mileage vehicles.

The parking pawl in the AT rarely has much wear. So, when in park the prop shaft should have very minimal play making it difficult to force a "clunk" sound. Based on the description of the sound, it seems probable a worn U-joint or a loose flange is the source.
 
The jam nut on the flange takes 17mm box
I assume it's not welded onto that and must be held secure during torque
 
I even tried the new 1/2 inch 6 inch extension just bot from tekton and still no clearance around that joint

Buy yet another torque wrench if my old stubby stubby 3/8 extension fits well?
 
Snap-on brand has a decent selection of automotive tools :)
But damned be the price :eek:

Beginning at the torque wrench......
1/2" drive torque wrench + 1/2" to 3/8" adapter + 3/8" extension + 3/8" universal joint (if needed) + 3/8" drive socket.

Much less expensive than any Snap-On tool.
 
I even tried the new 1/2 inch 6 inch extension just bot from tekton and still no clearance around that joint

Buy yet another torque wrench if my old stubby stubby 3/8 extension fits well?
14mm 3/8 inch and the stubby appears to be good for clearance
Now I must concern about ground clearance torque wrench
 
o jeesh.....

set the torque wrench parallel to the ground. Now, pull down. Chances are you only will need a few degrees of rotation to make the torque level.
 
still there is this clunky... but NOT all the time. so i do not get it get it at all!?

to properly check that rear-most uJoint that likely has NOT ever been greased with new red tacky until i did it (watery oozed out then)
to properly check would the driveshaft need to be undone from 3rd memeber to get a better feel onit?
 
The u-joints can be checked for excessive play using some sort of pry bar without removing the driveshaft.
 
why do u need a prybar?
i have seen it done on video with two hands onit
hold one side n try to twist move other side?
but i think prop shaft was unattached idk
 
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