monroe quikStruts and wheel wobble...

Rock62 said:
Do you off-road? Do you need a large amount of suspension travel? Heavy loads? Towing??

I suspect you could save significant $$$ with a basic shock for pavement driving. Then change them every 50 kmiles.
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broken city roads, some rutted open-range trails
these MonRoe QS are not damping much at all, probably making it worse
 
tacojoel said:
Did you ever get those wobble goblins out of your truck? I never needed shocks in my tundra till over 100k miles. They were all kyb's.
I hope you have better luck with fox shocks than others i know. They require constant rebuilding to maintain that they work properly. They are not a keep shock to own, but they do work well if kept in good condition.
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these FOX i was looking at are at least 1100$ for the pair up front
i would like some guarantee they will solve the issue!
 
Based on all your posts. I suspect the problem is deeper than a set of high $$ shocks.

If I owned your truck, I'd be looking at the suspension and steering components. Especially, when knowing the truck has over 250 kmiles. Then I would replace/repair any part that is worn or suspect. Tighten everything up. Shocks may be the least of the problem.

Loose, worn components will adversely affect handling and ride quality. High $$ shocks won't fix worn out suspension or steering components.

Nothing is made to last forever......except taxes and death.


FWIW, I just replaced 2 struts and 2 shocks on our '02 Chevy Trailblazer with 130+ Kmiles for about $200. The OEM struts and shocks were WAY past due. The suspension and steering components are still tight.
 
yes, i have asked the Yota shop to check the control arm bushings condition on multiple occasions, maybe those are getting jammed IDK
but they give me no definite answer other than Toyota parts last for a VERY long time

i have serious need to get on that other place to see if Taco John in Denver has had to replace any of this stuff yet on his '97 v6 reg cab with 725k supercharged miles

a few years ago he got some VERY pricey King coilovers, the blue ones, to handle the broken roads in the Denver area
 
he did recently get new swaybar link ends because his actually BROKE in half, literally!
 
Ok..... 1997 until 2023 is a VERY long time for a vehicle. 250,000 miles is a VERY long time for a vehicle.

How does Taco John's truck effect the part conditions on your truck?

Trust me, his truck didn't get to 725 kmiles without constant maintenance/repair/part replacment....... Even semi-tractors undergo overhauls at specific mileage points. Those are built to much stronger requirements than a consumer vehicle.


Well, its your truck. You have received good counsel and guidance from several members on this site on paths to isolate and solve your issues.
 
they were built just one month apart! so same age
i know he had always used the Monroe QStruts until he got those Kings! and he said it made a BIG difference

sometimes i honestly think its the abhorrent conditions they keep the streets in, i have very few issues on the freeway if its not all chunked out

and don't recall anybody here telling me anything about how you go about testing the control arms to see if the bushings are shot
OR the UBJs for that matter

when i had free range of the knuckles last fall (No coils on and no swaybar links) they appeared to go up and down in a fluid motion
 
So.....one month apart.

Different driving habits, different roads, different loading, different weather, different maintenance.............many factors are different.

He may have a truck in the 3 percentile of production tolerances. Your truck may be in the 50 percentile of production tolerances. Maybe your truck was built on Friday afternoon just before quitting time on a long weekend. His may have been built mid-week. So many factors make the two trucks non-comparable.

The point is,.....you can not make reasonable conclusions between the two. You need to evaluate the condition of your truck as an individual truck.
 
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These toyota tie rod ends are notorious for needing replacement every 100k. They make the front tires in your truck feel real loose with a bunch of play going over any railroad tracks, but with nearly 300k miles i'm sure its way more then that. You don't notice how bad it really is till you drive a new truck.
 
tacojoel said:
These toyota tie rod ends are notorious for needing replacement every 100k. They make the front tires in your truck feel real loose with a bunch of play going over any railroad tracks, but with nearly 300k miles i'm sure its way more then that. You don't notice how bad it really is till you drive a new truck.
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well that is the first time i have ever heard about those ends needing replaced every 100k miles

i know one of the outer tierod ends on the driver side has a weep from the boot getting hit with a hammer and split, i have not noticed any leaking grease on the other side
i thought that the sign of shot tierod ends would be louding clanking/snapping when you turn wheel, especially a full turn? this is not the case you say

here's a pic from 15 months ago of the driver side after that wheel bearing was redone




IMG_7301.JPG




leaky outer tieRod driver side.JPG
 
Rock62 said:
So.....one month apart.

Different driving habits, different roads, different loading, different weather, different maintenance.............many factors are different.

He may have a truck in the 3 percentile of production tolerances. Your truck may be in the 50 percentile of production tolerances. Maybe your truck was built on Friday afternoon just before quitting time on a long weekend. His may have been built mid-week. So many factors make the two trucks non-comparable.

The point is,.....you can not make reasonable conclusions between the two. You need to evaluate the condition of your truck as an individual truck.
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well shoot! i honestly thought the only real difference, other than his rig being a v6 single cab with a supercharger and a buncha more miles towing a small trailer, was that mine has seen many salty winters in Chicago, Des Moines and Kansas City... he has only left Colorado once to Texas!


i need to get his info on how many of these tierod ends he has or has not gone through but those mofos at that other place screwed me over in a real bad way :mad:
 
tacojoel said:
Those are different than the outer tie rod ends my 01 tundra had. They look beefier. If no slop in them their ok.
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FireStone and one other Toyota tech said there is looseness in the inner tierod on driver side
but not sure exactly what they are talking about since they do not provide me with a closeup experience to my own property which irks me
 
Simple check for the tie rods.

Raise the front wheels off the ground. No weight on the wheel.
Grab the tire at the 9 & 3 o'clock position.
Try to wiggle the wheel.
If there is play, then the tie rod needs attention.

Ball joints use a similar test but grab the wheel at the 12 & 6 o'clock position.
Confirm with a lever place between the knuckle and the control arm.
If there is play, then the ball joint needs attention.

AFAIK, there is not a set interval for replacement of these parts.
 
Rock62 said:
Simple check for the tie rods.

Raise the front wheels off the ground. No weight on the wheel.
Grab the tire at the 9 & 3 o'clock position.
Try to wiggle the wheel.
If there is play, then the tie rod needs attention.

Ball joints use a similar test but grab the wheel at the 12 & 6 o'clock position.
Confirm with a lever place between the knuckle and the control arm.
If there is play, then the ball joint needs attention.

AFAIK, there is not a set interval for replacement of these parts.
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its tough call to say about the 12 & 6 shake!

i've been told numerous times by the pro at multiple places that it is the wheel bearing / hub that is the culprit for that shake
 
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