Oil change question

If you use this forums ''What New'' icon, you will be able to see that many of your threads have the same current post's, pics, or videos you've recently made. Maybe in the future try a different pic, or video if you want to deal with something related to the same subject matter.
 
0w8..... um no. Too thin at operating temperatures or any ambient over 30F. IMHO.

I'm sure someone will say this works great for the tight clearance engines. Problem is. Tight clearance frequently is more sensitive to accelerated wear.

We can take this to the extreme. Imagine an engine with pistons with a light press fit into the cylinders. Or connecting rods with a press on the crankshaft journals. Sure it'll run, but the cost in fuel and sacrifice of power...... eventually the clearances for running will develop.

As a mechanical engineer with a good working knowledge of tribology.....I would suggest following the Owner's Manual for your ride about which viscosity to use matched to the ambient temperature.
 
0w-8 is used in some toyota engines now, same for new mazda engines that have been manufactured with super tight tolerances. . Been fine. My 3.5 uses 0w20, so does our 2012 prius that has well over 100k miles on that viscosity oil. Neither leak, or burn any of oil. Gone are the days toyota used 5w30 in their new engines.
 
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In the fuel it is ok
According to this guy
But do not put additive into crankcase
 
When has that ever stop you with additives, especially if they ever come in a rattle can. Motor oils are already blended with their own additive package....adding an aftermarket additive is like playing engine roulette.
The only additive I add is zinc to my million hr. old tractor engine. It uses straight 30w non-detergent motor oil. That stuff is getting harder to find every year.
 
Well, you must be having serious thoughts of doing so. Normal people don't go posting all these snake oil pics, and videos of fuel, and oil additives unless considering using them.
 
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i have not yet found a need to add additive into the crankCase
BUT! one shop wanted to do a BG flush of my rig's engine to clean it up and yada yada yada
i have so far put that on hold, it does not noticeably burn oil at 353k miles
 
A flush has nothing to do with burning oil. It's to loosen any deposits that accumulate on your engine internals. It can block the engines oiling systems holes. I would not recommend it at this point. Same for those with an automatic transmission that have high mileage that never replaced their atf.
 
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i thot a flush would potentially free up any sticky valves and or piston rings?
that might lead to oil burning eventually?
learning curve here is the steepest o_O o_O o_O
 
Anytime you do an oil change, it's always best to pre-fill a new oil filter with fresh oil if possible. That insures instant oil pressure when starting the engine for the first time. Not doing so means no oil pressure to critical engine components for the first few seconds.
 
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