JayQQ97
MW surVivor ... clutched. 349k on the 0D0
I know zero about any of all of this
TY for educating me!
Look for white out the exhaust then?
The Oil Change Interval Dissected
- Thread starter AccessSX
- Start date
TY for educating me!
Look for white out the exhaust then?
Rock62
Well-Known Member
Maybe......depends on the size of the leak.
It is common to see "white" exhaust (steam), most noticeable in cold temperatures. Water is a by-product of combustion as a normal process. Also the CAT convertor will create H2O as part of the reaction.
No I didn't. I sent a sample out for my 2001 tundra when it hit 100k miles, and another years later at 200k miles using mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic only. These were with 15k mile, or more oil changes as I was driving to work, and back 50 miles everyday for years. The oil analyst sheets for both those mileage's were close to identical, and that truck never touched a drop oil. I see no reason for oil changes sooner than 10k miles as I don't consider I'm in the severe use category.
JayQQ97
MW surVivor ... clutched. 349k on the 0D0
its quite possible that it is 'only certain' Yota engines that will gum up real bad like in that car nut pres. and scar the internals so bad
a few gens of Corollas had serious oil burn issues, mine may or may not have the problem... i am currently changing 2 oil seals and VCG because they are weeping and go from there to see
For me 5 k miles
I look at it this way. It’s very in expensive to do your self
it takes me all of 30 mins with some music on and a cup of coffee, and my engine always has clean oil.
The only time I ever had an issue is when I had a piece of crap formula firebird 5.0 liter v8
that thing burnt oil at 10 k miles and a lot of it . I never bought another GM product again . They gave me such a run around that i would never buy anything from them again . Sold that car and bought a Celica GTS and I’ve been a Toyota guy since
I look at it this way. It’s very in expensive to do your self
it takes me all of 30 mins with some music on and a cup of coffee, and my engine always has clean oil.
The only time I ever had an issue is when I had a piece of crap formula firebird 5.0 liter v8
that thing burnt oil at 10 k miles and a lot of it . I never bought another GM product again . They gave me such a run around that i would never buy anything from them again . Sold that car and bought a Celica GTS and I’ve been a Toyota guy since
Exactly. Those 3.0 v6's that came in the highlander were notorious sludge engines burning oil before a 100k miles. Even my 93 3.0 v6 had issues between head gaskets, it started using oil around 90k miles, and that truck had 7.5k mile oil changes, or a bit sooner. Later found out it too was a sludge engine.
JayQQ97
MW surVivor ... clutched. 349k on the 0D0
How bouts I not ever get the oil changed ever again in my rig after 300k
Rock62
Well-Known Member
Why wait????
JayQQ97
MW surVivor ... clutched. 349k on the 0D0
it makes perfect sense from whut i've been told lately...
Rock62
Well-Known Member
FWIW. I simplified my oil buy. I use 5w30 in everything, Truck, Trailblazer, motorcycle, lawn mower, snow blower. This way I don't have few odd partial qts of varying viscosity laying about. Brand wise, typically, I'll get Valvoline, Quaker or Penz. The choice depends on the least expensive at time of purchase.
The wife's '19 CR-V gets whatever slippy stuff Honda puts in. She purchased the lifetime oil change when she got the car, only a $400 spend. I can get the oil changed every 3 months or 3000 miles. It'll pay for itself in the long run. The last new car we purchased was in 2002 and we are still driving it. I keep the change interval short on that ride because its a little tiny 4 cyl engine with a turbo. Gotta push the skinny pedal to the floor to wake it up. Then there is always the moment when the engine seems to say, "Hunh, What? O yeah. Go!" Damn turbo lag.......
The wife's '19 CR-V gets whatever slippy stuff Honda puts in. She purchased the lifetime oil change when she got the car, only a $400 spend. I can get the oil changed every 3 months or 3000 miles. It'll pay for itself in the long run. The last new car we purchased was in 2002 and we are still driving it. I keep the change interval short on that ride because its a little tiny 4 cyl engine with a turbo. Gotta push the skinny pedal to the floor to wake it up. Then there is always the moment when the engine seems to say, "Hunh, What? O yeah. Go!" Damn turbo lag.......
I'll tell you, if I use 5w-30 in my Husqvarna lawn tractor, that kawi twin cylinder motor will smoke like a sumbitch using oil. Even the manufacture states not to use anything less than straight 30 weight during the summer months. I've run 15w-40 which has been ok to.
I use 5w-30 in my Honda snowblower, my new holland garden tractor, and Honda lawn mower without any issues. All these except the Husqvarna are a single cylinder with no motor oil filter.
Yep, except the little Honda lawn mower, its a laid down cylinder.
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Rock62
Well-Known Member
Ok.
The vertical splash lubes are less likely to smoke. Reason, the cylinder bore tends to be more "dry". Although, that is hard to imagine. If you have ever seen a slo-mo video of the splash resulting from a connecting rod pin hitting a puddle of oil at 1000 rpm........looks more like a hurricane of oil. Imagine at 3000 rpm.
The horizontal pressure lube should behave about the same. Reason, the oil volume is metered thru several sets of orifices.
You may have an oil control ring that is stuck or worn out.
Honda has extreme skills with cylinder honing, oil control rings, oil control.... I have a little Honda push mower with a horizontal splash lube. Its nearly 10 years old, has had about 2 oil changes and only uses roughtly 2 pints of oil in the sump.
FWIW, viscosity grades have tolerances. But all 30 weights should fall within the same tolerance range. Meaning 10w30 and 30 should behave about the same at the test temperature. The multi-vis oils (like 10w30) have temperature sensitive modifiers. These will "thin" the oil to the winter weight, 10 viscosity in this example.
The vertical splash lubes are less likely to smoke. Reason, the cylinder bore tends to be more "dry". Although, that is hard to imagine. If you have ever seen a slo-mo video of the splash resulting from a connecting rod pin hitting a puddle of oil at 1000 rpm........looks more like a hurricane of oil. Imagine at 3000 rpm.
The horizontal pressure lube should behave about the same. Reason, the oil volume is metered thru several sets of orifices.
You may have an oil control ring that is stuck or worn out.
Honda has extreme skills with cylinder honing, oil control rings, oil control.... I have a little Honda push mower with a horizontal splash lube. Its nearly 10 years old, has had about 2 oil changes and only uses roughtly 2 pints of oil in the sump.
FWIW, viscosity grades have tolerances. But all 30 weights should fall within the same tolerance range. Meaning 10w30 and 30 should behave about the same at the test temperature. The multi-vis oils (like 10w30) have temperature sensitive modifiers. These will "thin" the oil to the winter weight, 10 viscosity in this example.
My Honda is an old lightweight model made in 1986. It smokes a little when its cold, but when the engine is up to temp it fine. It has a tremendous amount of hours on it, yet it fires up in 2 pulls every time. I'm still amazed how few ounce's oil they take vs these briggs engines that need almost a qt
