Undercoating

got them falken wildPeaks on the Gen2, they handled the extreme cold, sand-laden city streets and scraped freeway fairly well today, was tearing it up in 4x4 out there... its a bummer the snowfall was a pittance! not like 2yrs ago at all we had twice as much snow at well below zero, it was bizarre

then had to stop for some taco fuel (light went on) at the top of i-80 hill with a -50 below zero windchill up there in my light jacket no hat no gloves
flash froze my hand grasping the dispenser, that friggin stung!
and could only manage standing with back against the wind for 5 gallons (i must be getting weaker as i age) before my ears started nippin and it was back to the racket of tearing it up and wheelin' it to the walgreens
not much traffic out there and semitrucks were going slower than the usual 70mph they haul through the city
i goto extremes.
 
the use of FF in NY on a '13 Tundra
lots of it has come off
the tour begins at 4 minute mark

 
the more i keep reading the more interesting this product becomes

boeshield.com

Why Boeshield? | Boeshield T-9®

Superior Corrosion Protection, Rust Inhibitor, Metal Protection, Waterproof Lubricant, Multipurpose Formula, Long-Lasting Protection
boeshield.com
 
Well that boeShield definitely does not like to spray well at 15 degrees
Testing patch up front on frame in wheel area
 
temps warmed up enough, ice melted in sunny skies, to run the garden hose outside

a mild spritzing of the recently applied test patch of boeShield yielded some interesting results
the water just beaded off it like a wax... clean and clear it is
this is an unmolested area with genuine tacoma frame coating fairly much still in tact in the front passenger wheel well

if this coating does not noticeably decay down to the frame coating we MAY JUST HAVE A WINNER WINNER here taco junkies
 
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huh... i read about it being able to do this

71aOis56u5L._AC_SL1079_.jpg
 
i do like how that cosmoline i sprayed on half the rear axle and 3rd member is NOT caked in dirt like the other half i put HV woolWax on

do you spray cosmoline all over the engine compartment to keep stuffs rust free?
i've got a couple of nasty corroded clamps in mine
i tried spraying that FF in there but it attracts dirty and made a messy :confused:
 
JayQQ97 said:
i do like how that cosmoline i sprayed on half the rear axle and 3rd member is NOT caked in dirt like the other half i put HV woolWax on

do you spray cosmoline all over the engine compartment to keep stuffs rust free?
i've got a couple of nasty corroded clamps in mine
i tried spraying that FF in there but it attracts dirty and made a messy :confused:
Click to expand...
I just did the battery tray area in my truck as far as under the engines hood. When i removed the engine shield plate and chin spoiler, i coated all the steel frame sections, and power steering lines. The cosmoline is holding up well.
 
tacojoel said:
I just did the battery tray area in my truck as far as under the engines hood. When i removed the engine shield plate and chin spoiler, i coated all the steel frame sections, and power steering lines. The cosmoline is holding up well.
Click to expand...
well hopefully the Gen3 was fitted with better fasteners up front than the crappy Gen2 fasteners (around the grill and headlight assemblies for one) ... probably other items i have yet to stumble upon :confused:
 

...currently looking for deets on how to apply this T-9 product from a gallon jug instead of the spray cans​

a bit on the pricey side at 115$​

​

51Q7nAQUfIL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

​

​

From the Manufacturer​

On a seafaring yacht, a dusty ATV, or a shower door, T-9 has you covered. Boeshield T-9 endures muddy bike trails, rain-soaked back roads, and salted highways. It withstands farmer’s fields, offshore oil rigs, and carpenter's workshops. For everyone from firefighters and road crews to cyclists and sailors, Boeshield T-9 is the proven solution. T-9 attacks existing corrosion, loosens rusty parts, and flushes out old lubricants. It is also extremely useful for drying wet parts, electrical motors and circuits, ignitions, and connectors. Apply T-9 and wipe off the excess for immediate use. T-9 dries to a waxy, waterproof finish without leaving a sticky film to attract dirt, dust, or mud. T-9 stays liquid long enough to permeate metal crevices and seep deep inside assembled components to leave a durable protective coating as well as lubricating and protecting-all without dismantling your equipment. Apply T-9 to any metal surface and let it dry. One simple step gives you a thin, penetrating film of durable, waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, months after month or mile after mile. T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won't wash off in rain, puddles, or mud. You can rinse away sand, dust and grime with water, while leaving the lubricant intact. T-9 will not harm paint, plastic, rubber, fiberglass, or vinyl. It can be used on engines, wiring, and belts. T-9 is nonconductive and will not cause short circuits, so it's also safe to use on electronics. Use solvent or any emulsifying cleaner to easily remove T-9, or simply respray and allow T-9 to dissolve itself before wiping it off.

6159Rl3K52L._AC_SL1192_.jpg
 
I have a really nice bridge for sale.

Fresh paint, no rust, lightly used..............

The Troll under the bridge is included.
 
I sprayed some of that boeShield for a test on my taco where the original paint coating is unmolested but has pitting

Then spritzed with the hose and a nice waxy gloss and sheened the water right off it in amazement

If it weather's well after a season that periodical application is a minimum then we may have found that elusive elixir I have been waiting 4 years now for
 
Rock62 said:
I have a really nice bridge for sale.

Fresh paint, no rust, lightly used..............

The Troll under the bridge is included.
Click to expand...
Hopefully not a bridge from i29 south Dakota or better yet an i80 bridge in NE at the sarpy county line by the Toyota dealership

Somebody is gonna get killed going over that bridge approach
Then perhaps they will properly fix it
 
JayQQ97 said:

...currently looking for deets on how to apply this T-9 product from a gallon jug instead of the spray cans​

a bit on the pricey side at 115$​

​

51Q7nAQUfIL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

​

​

From the Manufacturer​

On a seafaring yacht, a dusty ATV, or a shower door, T-9 has you covered. Boeshield T-9 endures muddy bike trails, rain-soaked back roads, and salted highways. It withstands farmer’s fields, offshore oil rigs, and carpenter's workshops. For everyone from firefighters and road crews to cyclists and sailors, Boeshield T-9 is the proven solution. T-9 attacks existing corrosion, loosens rusty parts, and flushes out old lubricants. It is also extremely useful for drying wet parts, electrical motors and circuits, ignitions, and connectors. Apply T-9 and wipe off the excess for immediate use. T-9 dries to a waxy, waterproof finish without leaving a sticky film to attract dirt, dust, or mud. T-9 stays liquid long enough to permeate metal crevices and seep deep inside assembled components to leave a durable protective coating as well as lubricating and protecting-all without dismantling your equipment. Apply T-9 to any metal surface and let it dry. One simple step gives you a thin, penetrating film of durable, waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, months after month or mile after mile. T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won't wash off in rain, puddles, or mud. You can rinse away sand, dust and grime with water, while leaving the lubricant intact. T-9 will not harm paint, plastic, rubber, fiberglass, or vinyl. It can be used on engines, wiring, and belts. T-9 is nonconductive and will not cause short circuits, so it's also safe to use on electronics. Use solvent or any emulsifying cleaner to easily remove T-9, or simply respray and allow T-9 to dissolve itself before wiping it off.

6159Rl3K52L._AC_SL1192_.jpg
Click to expand...
I can do that with a .50 cent piece of emery paper.
 
My tundra rack looked similar with holes that rotted though it, that all the power steering fluid leaked out. Changing it out wasn't real hard. it was the crusty steel lines that were a pita to remove from the pump to the rack. Looks like one of the seals are leaking on this one.
 
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