What oil are all of ya using?

Nothing wrong if not a truly full synthetic as they provide better corrosion protection on vital parts than a full synthetic would.
This is just my opinion but the base, whether is hydro cracked or grade 4 or 5, will withstand 99.9% of what a normal driver will put it thru. The big difference is the additive package.
 
Please define a "normal driver"

Or

Define an Abnormal Driver.
Normal would be a DD, back and forth to work, generally the normal day to day stuff, probably 10k to 12k a year. Abnormal would be tracking, off roading, long distances, high mileage per year. Several years ago now but I was driving 50k a year for 6 years, now I consider that abnormal.
 
Normal...obeying all speed limits or keeping fairly close. Using the truck as meant to be by the manufacture.
Abnormal....Beating the piss out of the vehicle, having no respect for it.
 
Normal would be a DD, back and forth to work, generally the normal day to day stuff, probably 10k to 12k a year. Abnormal would be tracking, off roading, long distances, high mileage per year. Several years ago now but I was driving 50k a year for 6 years, now I consider that abnormal.
Its been a while since I visited this thread.

Frankly, this isn't a difficult choice. Just follow the recommendations in the Owner's Manual. Be sure the oil meets or exceeds the API requirements, match the viscosity to the ambient temperature range and follow the change interval.

Sure, you can debate/agonize which oil is best, but if the oil meets or exceeds the API requirements........then what is the gain?
Viscosity can vary to some extent, but 5w30 or 10w30 or 0w20 will satisfy the temperature ranges in the continental USA. The 0w20 oil is to squeeeze out a little more efficiency for EPA fleet requirements.
Change interval.......well this all depends on how much sludge or oil degradation you want to sustain while considering the risk of engine trouble. The engineers who designed, built and tested these engines for 1000s of hours probably know a thing or two about the change interval.

Personally, I use either Quaker, Valvoline or Pennzoil full syn oil in the 5w30 viscosity and regular changes at 5000 miles with a new Wix, Bosch or ACDelco filter each change. This is a DIY task for me. My cost is less than $40 and about 30 minutes of time. The local NAPA store recycles used motor oil.


FWIW, no one can determine the condition of oil using visual observation. Shoot, some oils of the same viscosity and different brands have different color fresh from the bottles.
 
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I was using Pennzoil 10w30 in my 2.4 then switched to 10w40, it doesn't get that cold here in Texas!
Both of those oils have similar winter viscosity of 10w. Although, your gain is in the higher temperatures with 40 over the 30.

Spent a little time to look up the test procedures for the "winter viscosity" determination. IIRC, there are 2 tests at different temperatures. 32F and 0F.
 
I just stay with 0w20. I guess 5w20 is just fine also. When I tried 5w30 in my taco that I had saved an unused jug from my old tundra....the taco didn't like it when it was -15 a couple winters ago. I went back to 0w20 last year, and so far no odd noises upon firing it up.
 
? for gen2 application...

6qt smartChange box

28$ and sum change BT at the walMart


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