Oil change question

Some should visit germany where car manufactures there recommend 20k oil changes. They think were to wasteful here in the u.s. with crazy 5k mile oil changes or less. When i was over there a few years ago, i didn't here of any bad engines due their extended oil changes.
One thing to remember, in Europe a synthetic oil has to be a true synthetic, not the sudo synthetics that are common place in the USA. Most of the off the shelf synthetics in the US have a base oil of hydro crushed crude, yes it's better than plain old crude but still doesn't perform like a true synthetic.
 
True, but mobil1is still not a full synthetic, but it does sell a blend for the european auto industry. There are some that argue a semi synthetic protects better than one thats 100%.
 
True, but mobil1is still not a full synthetic, but it does sell a blend for the european auto industry. There are some that argue a semi synthetic protects better than one thats 100%.
Yes, I think you're right. My personal view is that a true synthetic shines in a direct injected engine with extended mile oil changes, strictly because of the fuel dilution issues, or in extreme hot or cold conditions. I know some of the old time mechanics don't care for synthetics, they claim they cause cam and lifter issues. Don't know if they really have any proof or that's just their feelings. The whole argument that oil A is better than oil B is pretty much all corporate advertisment. Choose a oil and if it works for you keep using it, if not change to something else.
 
Yes, I think you're right. My personal view is that a true synthetic shines in a direct injected engine with extended mile oil changes, strictly because of the fuel dilution issues, or in extreme hot or cold conditions. I know some of the old time mechanics don't care for synthetics, they claim they cause cam and lifter issues. Don't know if they really have any proof or that's just their feelings. The whole argument that oil A is better than oil B is pretty much all corporate advertisment. Choose a oil and if it works for you keep using it, if not change to something else.
Full synthetics also don't have the long term corrosion protections as a semi synthetic, or mineral oil.
 
Full synthetics also don't have the long term corrosion protections as a semi synthetic, or mineral oil.
That's a reasonable statement and I'm not trying to discount it at all, however I think it would depend on the specific manufacturer. I use some amsoil products and they have corrosion tests on some of their products that show better corrosion protection, again this is their advertisements. Then again they're oils are a secret proprietory blend so there's no way of knowing how much group3,4,and or 5 base oils are there other than their claim of 100% synthetic.
 
That's a reasonable statement and I'm not trying to discount it at all, however I think it would depend on the specific manufacturer. I use some amsoil products and they have corrosion tests on some of their products that show better corrosion protection, again this is their advertisements. Then again they're oils are a secret proprietory blend so there's no way of knowing how much group3,4,and or 5 base oils are there other than their claim of 100% synthetic.
Funny you mention amsoil. Their interceptor was the worst for 2 stroke snowmobile oils as having the least protection against corrosion. We disassemble several engines years ago that failed running on that oil. Every one had rust on crankshaft components, and bad rod bearings from being dry. Maybe its been reformulated by now, but we no longer use it.
As far as synthetics in general, the problem with them is internal engine component surfaces don't hold a good film of lubrication if not submerged in it. Mineral oil, and semi-synthetics are much better at this.
 
have you verified any with an oil analysis at a place such as BlackStone labs in Indiana

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
No I haven't, I've read a bunch of oil analysis data that different people have posted claiming that they're oil is better because. In all the reports the same compositions were reported, a little more of this a little less of that, nothing to really differenciate between a group 3,4,or 5 synthetic. About the only differences was the wear metals which did vary some but it was more according to a particular engine and not the lube used. Someone did make a comment one time where they found out the actual synthetic content of mobil1 but it wasn't readily available. They did some extensive searching and then you had to basically be a chemist to understand what you were reading.
 
Funny you mention amsoil. Their interceptor was the worst for 2 stroke snowmobile oils as having the least protection against corrosion. We disassemble several engines years ago that failed running on that oil. Every one had rust on crankshaft components, and bad rod bearings from being dry. Maybe its been reformulated by now, but we no longer use it.
As far as synthetics in general, the problem with them is internal engine component surfaces don't hold a good film of lubrication if not submerged in it. Mineral oil, and semi-synthetics are much better at this.
I've heard that about their 2 stroke oil before. I'm not saying amsoil is the best, only that I use some of their products. I run Pennzoil in my engines and amsoil severe gear in the diff. Alternate between Lucas and amsoil for a gas additive. Years ago I used to be 100% amsoil but over time the other companies have stepped up their game, I don't think there's that big of difference anymore unless you are pushing for extended drain intervals.
 
Funny you mention amsoil. Their interceptor was the worst for 2 stroke snowmobile oils as having the least protection against corrosion. We disassemble several engines years ago that failed running on that oil. Every one had rust on crankshaft components, and bad rod bearings from being dry. Maybe its been reformulated by now, but we no longer use it.
As far as synthetics in general, the problem with them is internal engine component surfaces don't hold a good film of lubrication if not submerged in it. Mineral oil, and semi-synthetics are much better at this.
Basically the gravity effect of pulling the thin synthetic back into the pan when vehicle is shut down for an extended period of non-use... All the upper bone dry!?
 
I've heard that about their 2 stroke oil before. I'm not saying amsoil is the best, only that I use some of their products. I run Pennzoil in my engines and amsoil severe gear in the diff. Alternate between Lucas and amsoil for a gas additive. Years ago I used to be 100% amsoil but over time the other companies have stepped up their game, I don't think there's that big of difference anymore unless you are pushing for extended drain intervals.
I've always used amsoil severe gear oil also. As far as mobil 1 motor oil, its made from base 5 and 6 stocks. The toyota dealer here change's the oil with it, so i'll continue using it.
 
Basically the gravity effect of pulling the thin synthetic back into the pan when vehicle is shut down for an extended period of non-use... All the upper bone dry!?
It depends how long the vehicle stays parked not running. I would think in the right environment for corrosion to happen, those weight synthetics could be a problem for not keeping a good film on those upper engine components if the vehicle isn't used for a long period.
 
Regardless of mountains of information. Change your oil and filter every 5k. Change transmission fluid every 60k. Rotate tires front to rear at every oil change. I've run Toyotas over 200k and have never had a transmission or engine problem.
How about that pink stuff in the radiator and hoses?
 
I never changed the coolant in my tundra in 19 years and 292 k miles although it was recommended to do so every 5 years or so. I figured when i read their coolant was rated lifetime it mean't that.
As far as oil changes 10k for normal operation is more than fine. 5k if severe use, like heavy towing, or constant use on dirt roads. Imo, were too wasteful when it comes to oil changes in this day and age. These synthetics have great additive packages, unlike the dino oils back in the day.
 
I figure the old saying "you pays your money and takes your choice" applies. But with the cost of vehicles today I'll be "wasteful".
 
I use Amsoil 0W 20, It’s the only oil that’s truly 100% synthetic and always use the amsoil 15K02 synthetic oil filter as well. It traps particles as small as 20 microns. Nobody has a filter with that small number of microns.
 
I use Amsoil 0W 20, It’s the only oil that’s truly 100% synthetic and always use the amsoil 15K02 synthetic oil filter as well. It traps particles as small as 20 microns. Nobody has a filter with that small number of microns.
I'm going back to amsoil my next change, I got away from it last year strictly because of price. Been using Pennzoil the last year and it's been ok however my wife's van has an actual oil life monitor vs a mileage reminder. According to the monitor the Pennzoil is done at 5k miles, amsoil was still at 50% at 5k miles. I've used amsoil for years in many different vehicles and equipment and never had any issues. Gonna suck it up and spend a few extra dollars and go back to the good stuff.
 
I'll stick with mobil1. Its what our dealer used during toyotacare. I used mobil 1 in my trundra for the entire life owned, mostly driven on asphalt roads. I once even sent out an oil sample years ago to be analyzed that came back claiming this oil was still fine to run after 10k miles, so i let it go to 15k before changing it. Vehicles are expensive, but i have no worries with todays synthetics.
 
Remember just like designed obsolescence, manufacturers are primarily interested in two things. First the vehicle makes it through warranty without issues and second selling you another new car.

Now I've followed the schedule I mentioned on two vehicles. Both bought new. One in 1978 and the other in 1982. Both are fully operatonal and have had a minimum of wear related issues. Cars are like any other piece of equipment. Take care of it and it will last until you're dead.
I recently stumbled upon some literature stating automakers competing against each other with those sales tactics known as cost of vehicle ownership.
If you raise the OCI you will lower the cost of ownership... Until it's out of warranty that is
 
I recently stumbled upon some literature stating automakers competing against each other with those sales tactics known as cost of vehicle ownership.
If you raise the OCI you will lower the cost of ownership... Until it's out of warranty that is
That's also one of the reasons for e15 and e85 gas. It's not that it's better or is good for you're vehicle. I would say most consumers don't have any idea what kind of gas mileage they are getting, the only thing they see is the price on the pump.
 
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