Undercoating

JayQQ97 said:
my pops had a '76 Ford eco van. leaded-fuel only, in the late '70s

THOSE leaded exhaust fumes were toxic in the winter when you could see and sniff 'em o_O
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I had cars ,and trucks also before unleaded fuel became mandatory, and I'm still breathing. Imo, thats when fuel was fuel. You could pull up to the pumps, and demand Sunoco 260. Now a days, all the gasoline grades are unleaded
 
blasterproducts.com

Surface Shield® Rust Protectant - B'laster Products

B’laster Surface Shield® is the longest lasting, Rust Protectant on the market. This unique formula is easy to apply and provides complete corrosion protection for all metal surfaces, equipment and moving parts. It’s the best defense in fighting rust. Features Extreme Moisture-Wicking Action...
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I seriously doubt that blaster surface shield claims of longest lasting rust protectant on the market
But I would try it on the most extreme of washout areas in the wheelhouse
And see how it go
 
tacojoel said:
Its suppose to stay semi dry...probably takes a day or so to set up better. Cosmoline will dry.
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that cosmoline did not 'dry' per se
maybe its the heat in the 80s/90s that softens it up?

i grabbed the shaft and its real tacky from the cosmoline sprayed last season
doesn't appear to rub off on hands except for whut i sprayed with wd40 to try get sum swamp mud off it
 
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Stuff on my truck is dry, but has a waxy feel. You can scrape into it, but you need a rag, and mineral sprits, or similar to really remove it. If you previously used something else like fluid flim, and didn't remove it 100% before applying cosmoline, the cosmoline will never permanently dry.
 
tacojoel said:
Stuff on my truck is dry, but has a waxy feel. You can scrape into it, but you need a rag, and mineral sprits, or similar to really remove it.
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the car nut guy did some undercoating spot on his YouTube channel on his wife's vehicle, outsourced it though with the surface shield stuff
he said to not apply undercoating to rotating prop shafts
but in my experience you absolutely have to or else it will git all roached looking and unsightly
#nosloppyTaco
 
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Imo, you never want that rust inhibitor stuff like cosmoline on any rotating equipment like a drive shaft. If your going to do it, use something like fluid flim on it every year.
 
tacojoel said:
Imo, you never want that rust inhibitor stuff like cosmoline on any rotating equipment like a drive shaft. If your going to do it, use something like fluid flim on it every year.
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fluid film and regular woolwax will NOT stick to it, already been tried and was disappointed

why no cosmoline?, its more or less sticking well.. found only a few spots that crusty is peeking
and it looks DDG badassery and will no doubt increase auction value by the 1000s LMAO
 
Cape taco said:
They do make the best penetrating oil though! PB Blaster
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I like PB Blaster, it's good, but in the early to mid 90s, when I got into restoring Triumph sportscars I found something better. Haven't seen it since. It was in a purple can and was labeled as a Castrol product. When sprayed, it was a thick foam, like shaving cream, then started slowing liquifying. The liquid lubricant would then penetrate down into whatever you wanted lubricated. Come to think of it, and mentioning the Triumphs, I got that stuff when I ordered a bunch of parts from Rimmer Brothers in the UK for my 62 Triumph Vitesse Sports 6, small chassis Triumph, originally had a 1.6L inline-6, dropped a built 2.0L inline-6 in its place. Had triple Weber side-draught carbs. Have I ever mentioned I love inline-6's?

Anyway, just checked their site... No dice. Don't have it anymore. You could put a little bit on top of a bolt head, it would work its way down the threads, and in about 12 to 24 hours be all loosey-goosey.
 
I've mixed 50/50 acetone, and marvel mystery oil, and brushed it on rusty bolts....in minutes I've been able to removed the seized up bolts. Recently used the mixture on an old Honda snowblower that had some real crusty hardware in it needing to come out.
 
Cape taco said:
There is a guy here on cape cod with a '70 tr6 and it has a 289 ford in it my homie said it rips. I have yet to see this unicorn.
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Wasn't that uncommon to see an American small block v8 in those euro cars. There was a guy not far from me that passed away that had a shop converting old jags with 350 gm crate motors. Heck look what Caroll Shelby did with the AC cobra.
 
Cape taco said:
There is a guy here on cape cod with a '70 tr6 and it has a 289 ford in it my homie said it rips. I have yet to see this unicorn.
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tacojoel said:
Wasn't that uncommon to see an American small block v8 in those euro cars. There was a guy not far from me that passed away that had a shop converting old jags with 350 gm crate motors. Heck look what Caroll Shelby did with the AC cobra.
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I knew the guy that literally wrote the book on putting small-block Fords into TR6s. Lived around Knoxville, Tn. Dan Masters was his name, he was an electrical engineer, and is known as the electrical guru of LBCs (Little British Cars). He was a perfectionist. Those V8 TR6s were something, Click Me!

Sadly, I have lost touch with him, don't know whether he is still among the living.

Putting small-block Chevies into Jags was a no-brainer, as they used a Turbo 350 transmission. The hardest part was the engine mounts.

And before Ol' Shel, there was the Sunbeam Tiger, bristling in all of its 260 small-block Ford glory. Missed getting one of those for a song. When I seen a resto project in someone's yard, I stopped to look at it, no one was home though. Hmmm, LBC with a V8?!?! I don't want someone else's project like that. A week later, I found out what it really was, went back to make an offer/purchase... It was already sold :(
 
tacojoel said:
There was a local resident here that has a sunbeam tiger that has a 289 in it. I've only seen a a couple times....once at a Burger King.
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Probably a Mk2 Tiger, those came with the 289 in the US. Or someone got tired of the low-po and self-destructing 260. I know in the vintage racing scene, the 289 is the preferred engine, and is even encouraged for those with 260s to swap. In concours, in a Mk1, only the 260 will do.
 
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